| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
3 members (moparguy, 3B, Chip O),
139
guests, and
1
robot. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,192 Posts1,057,350 Members48,469 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 23 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 23 | Happy Monday, everyone. This weekend I got very frustrated trying to get the rear end off my 55 Chevy Series 2 pickup. The front of the rear springs appears to need some sort of special tool. I took off the greasing tip (sorry, not a mechanic, so the terminology is probably way off! Lol). Anyway, now what? I have the shop manual and it shows a special tool and I was wondering if there's a way of getting around purchasing a tool that I'll use once? Hopefully, someone here will have a simple solution. Thanks! Chris
Chris "I'm sure those leftover parts aren't needed" 55 Chevy Series 2 pickup, "Buddy"
| | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | I don't recall a special tool but I do recall the step in front of the fender must be removed. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 118 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 118 | Chris, the front of the rear springs are just held up with a pin that goes through the spring eye and the bracket. To get the pin out there is a second retaining pin that holds it in on the bottom of the bracket. Take the nut off the retaining pin drive it out with a hammer, then beat the larger pin out and the spring should just fall out of the bracket. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/gmc/5559mm/5559mm515.htmllook at picture B or D depending on 1/2 or 3/4 ton, they're both the same though. The fender and step doesnt necessarily have to be removed but it gives you a great deal more room. No special tool needed
Last edited by gumbi; 05/07/2012 11:30 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,038 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,038 | Chris, Gumbi has it correct. After removing the retaining pin, the manual probably says to remove the grease fitting (zerk) on the big pin (bracket pin in the diagrams) and screw in a fitting that goes on a slide hammer. It worked on my 1950 COE but you can also tap it out with a punch from inside the frame, assuming there is a hole there. One piece of advice the spring shop shared with me was, take the weight of the spring off the mounting bracket with a floor jack before trying to budge the bracket pin. If it is still hard to budge, consider trying to grease it well with the zerk in place or use penetrating lubricant.
Kent | | | | | Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 23 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 23 | Thanks for the tips, guys. I have removed the nut from the retaining pin. It looked in my manual like the pin screwed out, but maybe I'm mistaken. Anyway, I'm going with your suggestions!!Lol
Thanks! I love this forum!
Chris "I'm sure those leftover parts aren't needed" 55 Chevy Series 2 pickup, "Buddy"
| | |
| |
| |