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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 23
B
New Guy
New Guy
B Offline
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 23
Happy Monday, everyone. This weekend I got very frustrated trying to get the rear end off my 55 Chevy Series 2 pickup. The front of the rear springs appears to need some sort of special tool. I took off the greasing tip (sorry, not a mechanic, so the terminology is probably way off! Lol). Anyway, now what? I have the shop manual and it shows a special tool and I was wondering if there's a way of getting around purchasing a tool that I'll use once?
Hopefully, someone here will have a simple solution.
Thanks!
Chris


Chris
"I'm sure those leftover parts aren't needed"
55 Chevy Series 2 pickup, "Buddy"
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
I don't recall a special tool but I do recall the step in front of the fender must be removed.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 118
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 118
Chris, the front of the rear springs are just held up with a pin that goes through the spring eye and the bracket. To get the pin out there is a second retaining pin that holds it in on the bottom of the bracket. Take the nut off the retaining pin drive it out with a hammer, then beat the larger pin out and the spring should just fall out of the bracket.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/gmc/5559mm/5559mm515.html
look at picture B or D depending on 1/2 or 3/4 ton, they're both the same though. The fender and step doesnt necessarily have to be removed but it gives you a great deal more room. No special tool needed

Last edited by gumbi; 05/07/2012 11:30 PM.
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,038
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,038
Chris,
Gumbi has it correct. After removing the retaining pin, the manual probably says to remove the grease fitting (zerk) on the big pin (bracket pin in the diagrams) and screw in a fitting that goes on a slide hammer. It worked on my 1950 COE but you can also tap it out with a punch from inside the frame, assuming there is a hole there. One piece of advice the spring shop shared with me was, take the weight of the spring off the mounting bracket with a floor jack before trying to budge the bracket pin. If it is still hard to budge, consider trying to grease it well with the zerk in place or use penetrating lubricant.

Kent


1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
1942 Chevy 1/2 ton
1947 Diamond T Model 509
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton
1950 Chevy COE Model 5700 ~ "Barney" ~ And more pix
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 23
B
New Guy
New Guy
B Offline
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 23
Thanks for the tips, guys. I have removed the nut from the retaining pin. It looked in my manual like the pin screwed out, but maybe I'm mistaken. Anyway, I'm going with your suggestions!!Lol

Thanks! I love this forum!


Chris
"I'm sure those leftover parts aren't needed"
55 Chevy Series 2 pickup, "Buddy"

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