The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 2 questions crank pulley and engine hoist mounting

First question
How far does the crank pulley go on?
I see a shoulder but I can't get the pulley anywhere close to it.
I heated the pulley up with a torch but I'm afraid of burning the rubber....

Second question
Do I really have to pull the valve train to attach my hoist to the engine so I can take it off the stand and get this thing started?

It's a 261 for those who don't know.

Thanks,

Jeremy

Jeremy,
A good tip is to heat the balancer up in the oven. Preheat to about 200. Keep the balancer in there for about 20 minutes. Use gloves. Make sure a new seal is installed on the crank. Make sure the key is in place. If you can keep the crank cool, that helps too.

I'm sure someone can tell you how far, but I usually see where the old bearing was. OR, look at other pulleys and align the balancer up to them.

I use two head bolts to attach a chain to a leveling bar then to a hoist for engine removal.

I hope this helps a little.

The crackshaft pulley goes on far enough to properly lineup with the water pump pulley.

They have been many opinions posted on what bolts to use to pull/lift the engine. Use fore and aft diagonal head bolts, or use bolts that hold the rocker shaft posts to the head.

Or, Follow the instructions in the Shop Manual.

I like to use a load leveler.

Tim-
I read the directions, I just didn't want to pull the valve train, move the engine to a table to attach the flywheel bell housing and starter then Replace the valve train test the engine, then remove the valve train again to put it in the truck.
I can read, I'm just feeling lazy.
That's all.

As for lining up with the pulley... I'm using the water pump off my 216(6 months old) which is still running and in the truck which I use every day. So maybe I'll pull the water pump from the 216 check e pulley alignment the reinstall the water pump onthe 216 so I can drive it still while I'm getting this 261 ready to toss in the truck...

Doesn't someone just have a measurement off te timing cover to the edge of the pulley?

Thanks,
Jeremy

Jeremy,

I only showed the Shop Manual because people said not to use head bolts; but, GM did not seem to worry about that.

As I posted, I have many times simply used two rocker post bolts, leaving the rocker arm assembly in place (I did his on two 261s two years ago - I am also lazy).

I was wondering if you had an engine with a non-stock water pump. Are you using the relocation plate? I just line up the crank pulley to the pulley on the pump mounted on the plate.

I usually just push the damper hub back against the timing gear. Measure the distance from the crank snout to the front of the timing gear, and then measure that far back into the damper bore. Make a mark inside, then measure from the front and push the damper on until you get that distance to the front of the crankshaft. The pulley grooves should line up right without any further attention.
Jerry

Tim,
No worries, I wasn't offended. I have no aversion to pulling head bolts,
I have a late model block but for an early truck... It has the crank bearings with out dowls and the high mount water pump with the 2 small holes. It made getting berings amusing because I thought it was an early block.
I'm going to pull the key out of the crank in the morning and see how far the pulley goes on with out it. Make measurements replace the key and try again. The pulleys should automatically line up.

Recovering from my surgery has me chomping at the bit to get this engine finished and in the truck. I want to go for a long test drive next weekend.

I've over done it today... I'll attack it the morning.
Thanks guys!

Jeremy

I like to use a 1/2"-13 bolt about an inch longer than a head bolt to secure a piece of angle iron to the top of the head in a couple of places, then use a clevis to attach the chain to the angle iron. I don't trust losing a lot of thread engagement on the head bolt as it goes through a chain link.
Jerry

Tightening a bolt in each of the two holes used for pulling the balancer locks out the damping effect of the balancer making it easier to drive it on (as per Chevs instructions).