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#84805 10/26/2007 7:15 PM | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | It appears that I'll need a special puller just to get the spring pins out, no? One Chev shop manual shows this 'slide hammar' puller with an adaptor that screws into the zerk fitting hole to pull these pins. Also this type shackle has pressed in bushing. Can these repairs be done without a cash of special tools?
Who carries the repair parts; pins shackles etc etc?
Thanks for any direction.
Jim | | |
#84806 10/26/2007 8:03 PM | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 125 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 125 | I removed and replaced all the bushings, bolts, and pins myself. I have a GMC, though, but I don't think there is any difference in the springs. After you remove the carriage bolt holding the shackle together, you can knock those side pieces of the shackle off and let the spring drop. The "pins" that stick out from the bushing are threaded in there. If they are stuck, try large vise grips and turn them out. That worked on all of mine, but I ended up putting them back in for this next step. If you are replacing the bushings anyway, why not just use the pin to pound on to take the old bushing out? It is already threaded into the bushing and will stick with it when you pound on the end of the pin. Sure you will deform the pin a bit on the ends, but it will knock out the bushing. On the side of the leaf spring where there is the bushing that is not threaded, where the bolt just passes through it, you can secure the spring and use a socket of the correct size to pound it out. Most all the suppliers carry the replacement parts. I got mine from Classic Parts. All the rest have them, though, I'm sure. Did I answer the questions or do you need to know something else? | | |
#84807 10/26/2007 8:53 PM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | If we are talking about the rear springs on a 3/4 Ton, the shackles are completely different than the front. You shouldn't need that puller at all. Remove the lockpins and then you can drive out the pins from the inside or backside using a brass drift. I took my shackles and springs to my spring guy to have the bushings replaced. I supplied the parts. They came from Jim Carter and also Espoe spring. My spring eyes were worn oblong a bit and the spring guy just tightened the curl before installing the bushings. I asked him if he used heat to do tighten the curl and he said absolutely not! | | |
#84808 10/26/2007 11:25 PM | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | Thanks guys I got clued in from the spring shop. These are totally different than the 1/2 tons, as truckernix stated the pins must be driven out from the inside. Sooooo glad I have this lift, would have been a nightmare without. Got everything loose and lifted the truck and watched the rear end roll away.
Since I just got my 4:11 gears the plan is to do the spring rebuild at the same time so I jerked the intire rear as a unit. The 3/4 ton stuff is really beafy, the pumpkin alone weighs 109lbs.
Now it's Miller time!
Thanks again
Jim | | |
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