The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop removing rear brake drums

So just how does one remove the rear axle brake drums on a 58 apache? The rear end is the last assembly to remove and my frame is ready to sand blast. A few pointers to get me started would be appreciated. Thanks

branita
not sure about the apaches, but might be the same. on the backing plate there should be 2 little "ovals." They may be punched out and plugged with little rubber stoppers, or they might not have been touched since the factory. in this case you will need to punch them out. Once open, you will need a brake tool. Flat screwdiver that is bent funny is a good comparison. inside the hole there is a little gear, use the tool to back of the brake shoes. If you go the wrong way the drum will get harder to turn. back off till loose. the drum should probably pull right off. However, if the truck has been sitting for a while, the gear is probably rusted tight, and the drum may take a while. Use something to help loosen the gear before attempting. Hope that this is relavent to your apache.

Or, if you're like me, you just release the parking brake and things suddenly get much easier. :rolleyes:

or like me a big freakin rubber hammer to the back top edge and smack it until it falls on foot! popcorn The Truth is Out There (Move foot faster)

maybe I just can't see the bees in the trees. Shouldn't I have to back off a nut first? kind of similar to removing the front brake drums off of the spindle? Marty

No nut . . . just make sure the brake shoe adjustment is backed off via the slot in the bottom of the backing plate on the back side below the axle.

Once it is backed off - beat the living day lights out of the drum to break the rusty bond between the axle hub and the brake drum centering hole. I have a couple of big screw drivers that I work into the gap between the backing plate and the drum and then beat with a big hammer on the drum itself - alternating between the sheet metal between the studs and the perimeter of the drum.

Once the rust bond is broken at the axle hub location just inside the wheel stud circle, it will come right off. This is one of those jobs that it doesn't pay to pussy foot around. Think of your least favorite %&*$#@%!! and it will pop right off after a few satisfying blows. :p

I got a big hammer to bang on my drum so I'll give it a try! Thank you. So, if the wheel is connected to the lug nuts that are connected to the drum that is only a big hammer blow away from popping right off , what keeps the wheel from just falling off any old time I'm just minding my own business driving down the road?
Where the heck is Yacolt? I've been there but can't remember where there is.

Yacolt is NE of Battleground which is NE of Vancouver. Takes me 45 minutes to get from my front door to the Portland airport. The best known local attraction is Nick's Tavern in Amboy - I am actually halfway between Yacolt and Amboy, but work in Vancouver. Mt. St Helens looms big at the end of the valley in front of my house.

The only thing holding the brake drum on is the wheel (rim) and lugnuts.

Hip Hip Hooray! Off come the drums!
Nothing like a few brews and a big hammer. Now I get it. Thanks to ya all! Now we're on to the axles next. Marty

The lugs don't mount to the drum, they mount to the axle flange and pass through the drum. The drum is held on by the wheel and lug nuts (and 30 years of rust, the wear ring around the inside of the drum, the curse on DIYers, etc :p ...). 3/4 tons can be different. Mine also have two flat head screws holding the drum to the flang, but they just hold things together while changing a tire.