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#84215 10/13/2007 11:11 AM
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'Bolter
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I have had some carb problems the last few weeks, mainly due to rust in the gas tank. So last weekend I broke down, cut apart the original gas line and installed a modern fuel filter. I had to dissassemble the carb to clean out the sediment and blow out the jets, and I must have tweeked the float sideways. Since then I have had intermittent problems with gas starvation and gas overrun through the carb, a fine Rochester B. When it runs, it runs great, but several times now it has quit just a few blocks from the garage. Other times gas just pours out of it.
I overhauled the carb two years ago, I don't think I even got the alignment jig in the carb kit, the one shown in the shop manual for sideways alignment - and I think the float is locking up inside the carb.
Is there a full scale drawing of this alignment jig to be downloaded somewhere?

Karl


It may not be the easy way, but it is the Cowboy Way - Ranger Doug
Beware of the stories you read or tell; subtly, at night, beneath the waters of consciousness, they are altering your world. - Ben Okri
1953 Chevy 3100
1960 Volvo PV 544
1941 Chevrolet Special Deluxe
#84216 10/14/2007 1:12 AM
Joined: Jun 2007
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'Bolter
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I have had the same problem just the past 3 days with the same carb. The lateral alignement is a matter of trial and error without the jig. Mine was actually rubbing on the gasket. I think it's clearing but I I still dont have the flooding problem solved, so maybe others will offer some insight on your problem. Good luck.


J.D. Jordan

#84217 10/14/2007 11:00 AM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I haven't seen that gage in kits for years. I think they cheaped out on this.


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#84218 10/14/2007 1:17 PM
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'Bolter
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C'mon guys, if we just get a full scale drawing of this lateral gauge we could make our own out of cardboard or galvanized. Even a good set of measurements would help - distance between floats and thickness of floats, maybe even outside distance float to float. I am surprised this stuff isn't included in some shop manual.
Karl


It may not be the easy way, but it is the Cowboy Way - Ranger Doug
Beware of the stories you read or tell; subtly, at night, beneath the waters of consciousness, they are altering your world. - Ben Okri
1953 Chevy 3100
1960 Volvo PV 544
1941 Chevrolet Special Deluxe
#84219 10/14/2007 5:29 PM
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,299
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'Bolter
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I just pulled out of an old aftermarket carb kit for a Rochester B carb the float guage. It is pretty much just a cardboard "L" shaped ruler with measurments in 1/32 inch increments. As I recall, the instuctions had height adjustment settings for float setting with needle valve closed (carb top inverted) and then one for float drop with carb top turned right side up. Is that what you are looking for? Maybe I could find the instruction sheet and scan it for settings later.

#84220 10/14/2007 6:51 PM
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Nope, Greg, that is not it. I am talking about the lateral float placement, side-to-side placement of the float in the chamber. The service book shows a jig that looks a little like an inverted "W" that will make sure that the sides of the float aren't rubbing on the inside of the chamber. If anyone has this jig they could just measure it...
Karl


It may not be the easy way, but it is the Cowboy Way - Ranger Doug
Beware of the stories you read or tell; subtly, at night, beneath the waters of consciousness, they are altering your world. - Ben Okri
1953 Chevy 3100
1960 Volvo PV 544
1941 Chevrolet Special Deluxe
#84221 10/14/2007 8:39 PM
Joined: Jul 2004
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'Bolter
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Karl,

You're determined on this gauge thing, but for this prehistoric carburetor, lining things up with the good old eyeball has always worked for me.

With the air horn on the bench upside down and the float assembly in place, the air horn casting AND the gasket give you a real good reference to what perfect alignment would be.

I sure didn't think the clearance between the floats themselves and the bowl were that close at all...maybe my sight if on the fritz.

PS: There is a church nearby that is giving their huge pipe organ away..free, just to get rid of it so they can install their new one! What would shipping be from Eureka, California to Lidkoping, Sweden? smile

Stuart

#84222 10/14/2007 9:30 PM
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Quote
lining things up with the good old eyeball has always worked for me.

With the air horn on the bench upside down and the float assembly in place, the air horn casting AND the gasket give you a real good reference to what perfect alignment would be.
I agree with Stuart.

The "side to side" alignment is checked visually. Just make sure it is centered as close as possible. Bend each side to center as necessary.

If you don't trust the eyeball, use any measuring tool.


-Tom

1950 Chevy 3100 w/ 1956 235
#84223 10/14/2007 10:42 PM
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Well, Stuart, I just wasn't smart enough to measure from the horn. The last few times I've had the problem I'm not at the workbench - I'm stuck on the side of the road stripping down the carb, and I just don't think too clearly.
Plus, here on the forum I am yakking with guys who live and breath the shop manual, I figure if there is a dohicky in the shop manual for just this problem then there are 50 guys reading this who have the dohicky. I've eyeballed the thing three times and the overflow/starvation problem comes back, and I think that it wouldn't be such a bad idea to do it by the book. Or at least be prepared to eliminate that potential problem next time I have to strip apart the carb.
As for disposing of the old organ, there is usually a reason why a church wants to replace an old instrument - hopefully the new one will hold its value better. I sure don't want it.
Karl


It may not be the easy way, but it is the Cowboy Way - Ranger Doug
Beware of the stories you read or tell; subtly, at night, beneath the waters of consciousness, they are altering your world. - Ben Okri
1953 Chevy 3100
1960 Volvo PV 544
1941 Chevrolet Special Deluxe

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