The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline '53 3100 - axle placement on leaf springs

Hello -

I'm now elbow deep into the open rear/T5 conversion on my '53 3100. I have the old rear end out, and the new perches on the new rear.

However, today I noticed that the locating tab on the leaf springs (for the spring perches) seems to be about 3" ahead of center in the wheel well. It seems that this would make sense, given that the old rear end used pivot mounts that were located in the front of the axle, vs. directly under the axle itself

Am I correct?

If so, it looks like I'll have to fabricate an offset for the axle, which shouldn't be too hard, but I want to know if I'm right before I start cutting metal.

Thanks...

Chris

Your on the right track. Some folks turn the leaf springs around which will supposedly put the spring center pin close to where you want it.

I used my old rear end and went with a later pumpkin.

....on my 37 I did just what you mentined. I made a plate with holes to fit over the center bolt and then drilled another for the "offset". I have not had any problems and I "stand on it" quite often!

Just remember, meaure twice, cut once.

1 1/2" is the difference between spring perch centering hole and the center of the axle tube on the torque tube rear, the other 1 1/2" is because the factory didn't center the wheel in the fender. If you turn the spring around you'll be 7/8" off to the rear. A stock spring is 54 1/8" long with the front eye centerline to centerline on the locating pin is 25 1/2" now from centerline of the pin to the center of the rear spring eye is 29". I have been told by two very knowledgeable spring people that making the front half of the spring longer than the back half will have an effect on stability.