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| | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 123 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 123 | Hello: There is a Tech Tip,under Suspension and Steering, for creating a adjustable drag link using two tie rod ends and a threaded sleeve . Has anyone done this? Do the tapers of the suggested NAPA parts work with the existing tapered holes? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Joe, I "started" to do it once but changed my mine as I went with a power steering kit that had it all.
I do believe it works and remember a thread about it some time ago. IF you have to ream it its very little.
If you do a search you'll probably fine a lot of reading on this.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 133 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 133 | There is no taper to the holes when you knock out the existing balls but the NAPA parts have a taper. I took my pitman arm and steering arm to a machine shop to have them make bushings to give me a 1/2" hole. I am using the replacement new style tie rods ends, they are 1/2" shaft with no taper, having the machine shop make a new 7/8" drag link shaft same as my tie rod but shorter, much shorter. I also thought about cutting my tie rod and welding it together to make the drag link shaft but decided to have one made since the machine shop said it was nothing to make one. They are not done yet but I expect it all to work fine. I am also upgrading to a new 1" tie rod with new ends.
If you never tell a lie, you never need to remember what you said.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 133 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 133 | All that being said, for a "53" you can buy a new drag link with new style ends but it is not adjustable. I would have done that on my "52" but they are not available for anything prior to "53".
If you never tell a lie, you never need to remember what you said.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | | | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 123 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 123 | The drag link I have doesn't have the ball studs, it looks like Classic Parts # 76-412, with the studs tapered like a newer style tie rod end. Anyway I am trying to get the steering wheel on true center while truck is going straight down the road. Thanks for any and all help. Joe | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | The important thing is to get the steering in the center of the steering gear when going straight down the road. When you get the toe in & that right you can remove the steering wheel & put it on in the correct possition.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 | Joe,
Check your front leaf springs. If they are flat, it changes the steering geometry, the wheel won't be on center, and your steering will be very funky.
I fought bad steering for years until I put new springs on. It raised the truck about 3 inches, and changed the position of the wheel about 90 degrees. It was a magical transformation as far as handling.
I think you could effectively do the same thing with the adjustable drag link, but if all else is right, you should not need an adjustable drag link.
I also agree 100% with what wrenchbender said.
Kurt
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