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| | | Forums66 Topics128,109 Posts1,056,240 Members48,437 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 | I have a 1950 'driver' that I have the engine out and the front clip off and the bed off. I know, might as well just pull the cab too!!! OK, so my questions are about painting the frame, etc.. I am in the process of cleaning up the frame (wire brush, pressure wash, etc etc etc...) Under the cap shows some surface rust so I've been told to use some POR 15 on it as well as the front sides (not sure what it's called) where the fenders attach. What about the frame, springs, etc..? I was going to just brush the POR 15 on so now would be the time to do it. OR should I just use POR 15 on the under side of the cab and just use spray enamal on the frame? For the underside of the front clip including fenders, the inner fenders, the firewall, I was just going to use flat black enamal. The engine is gray so that would give me some contrast and just look cleaner. Ideas, suggestions? Here's a link to my album my stovebolt...
Last edited by DMGfifty; 03/18/2012 8:41 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 166 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 166 | There are lots of good options. It just depends on your budget and how you want it to look. I've never used POR15 but I know those who have and it very tough, messy, and if it gets on your skin it takes days or weeks to wear off. If exposed to daylight a lot it will turn chalky. It's very durable and also very hard to get off should you ever change your mind. If you have a cheapo spray gun and air compressor, some cheap primer and black enamel paint from the tractor supply store will make a very nice clean looking job. Another option is 3M rubberized undercoating in spray cans. I'm sure somebody will chime in with more options! | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 171 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 171 | If it's not a full restoration but rather a stabilization then there is nothing wrong with plain ol Rustoleum satin black. Used that on some wishbones on my Model A and the carb leaks on it once in a while - it has held up great. Use a small roller, like 2" and a small brush...just get all the oil/grease off!! what ever you use
....David
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | All of those suggestions are good. Just don't have any grease or oil left on the frame or the paint won't stick.I red oxide primed using a cheap Sears spray gun and than chassis black from Eastwood. Has held up very well.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 | Thanks folks. I think I will use some sort of spray primer then satin black enamal. I will use the same satin black enamal on the inner fenders and firewall. That will look fine with the gray engine I think. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 | Wow,Dave,NICE WORK!! I have a 2-ton truck, with a 13'box/hoist combo. Three years ago, I wire-brushed the frame-rails,(of course,under the bed),drive shaft,springs, wheels,hubs,inner-fenders,axles,cab-floor-wherever there was rust,or the possibility of future corrosion. Then I cleaned everything with "Metal Prep",before applying a product called "Frame-Saver". Like I said, I applied this product 3-years ago,and there still is NO EVIDENCE of rust-even though I applied the paint to areas 99% rust-covered. What's nice,is that you only need to use ONE PRODUCT-But it is THICK-It took 3-gallons to do my truck,but you may only need a gallon, or so. about $100.00/gal. Satin finish-good brush=no brush marks!! | | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 | Thanks for the feedback Willy. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 | Looks like a few nicer days coming up along the Oregon coast. I decided to use Rustoleam primer and paint on the frame. Under the cab I am going to use , Rust Reformer (a Rustoleam product) One more day of pressure washing then some brushing and sanding and I’ll be ready to go. I’m going to cover the cab and top of the hood and paint everything else satin black firewall, frame, under hood, under fenders and inside fenders. I think that will look fine with the gray engine color. Thoughts? getting ready for frame paint engine almost ready | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | Looks good
How are you going to apply the paint? | | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 | rattle can. Light coats. I do have a sprayer, but it's not the best.. AND I don't have a good dryer on my air compressor. Looks good
How are you going to apply the paint? | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | You can get very good results with the rattle can.
I rattled can my frame the eastwoods high dollar stuff.I didnt think it was worth the money,
I got very good results with a cheap H.F. HPLV gun, sprayed using a pancake aircompressor. I used Rustoleum satin in the quart can and thinned it down.
Good Luck. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 | Do you have a pic of how your frame came out? You can get very good results with the rattle can.
I rattled can my frame the eastwoods high dollar stuff.I didnt think it was worth the money,
I got very good results with a cheap H.F. HPLV gun, sprayed using a pancake aircompressor. I used Rustoleum satin in the quart can and thinned it down.
Good Luck. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | I have a few in this folder ...link... Thats the eastwood stuff on the frame. I should of saved some money and used the rustoleum | | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 | Looks great. You did a fantastic job. I am sooo close to pulling the cab off and going all the way, however I don't have the space or the money. So just making a clean driver.
What size wheels did you get? I want to get some steel wheel and new radials. I've been told to get some 16 inch wheels, but can't remember the width. I got a set that fit, but they are too wide and the rims hit the tie rod ends.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | Thank you
the wheels are 15x6
I had to purchase new wheels because I put disc brakes on the front.
You can get a real good results with your cab still on and be able to drive your truck sooner.
It took me 3 years to do about 4 months work. they call it mission creep. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 | Made progress today. It's not perfect at all, but it's mainly clean and painted. I used Rustoleam Red Primer followed by 2 coats of Rustoleam semi gloss black. Under the cab I used another Rustoleam product called Rust Restorer. I've got flat black on the firewall... for now... Frame 1 Frame back Frame side Under cab Another front Comments? Front clip is next... | | | | | Joined: May 2009 Posts: 14 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2009 Posts: 14 | Hey Dave, It looks like I won't have to put my coveralls on it is so clean. Looks good.  | | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 | Hey John, this is supposed to be your anniversary weekend. What are you doing on here?
It's not perfect, but overall it's OK. Pass the pics on to Scott. He wont need coveralls either. Also, got the seal in the bearing end of the torque tube.
Now that the frame is done, it's on to the fenders and final prep of the engine. I've got the holes drilled for the front mount, but can't remember how it went. The cover holes are offset somewhat and don't remember if the long side is to the front or the back. Also, the plate for the mount has a 90 on it and I can't remember if it's to the rear or not? argh.
Plus more painting on the generator, starter, bell housing, etc etc..
Enjoy the sunshine for a day or two...
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 290 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 290 | Check out my 1953 3100 pictures. I sand blasted then epoxy primered then painted with atk200/atk201. it turned out great & hard as a rock. I was going to use Eastwoods ceramic chassis paint but decided to use this product. Anyway just thought I'd put my 2-cents in. I'll check your progress out. Laters
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 290 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 290 | Checked out your truck. nice job!!
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