The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Truck build "daily driver" suggestions?

My truck is down to the frame. I am putting it back together for a daily driver. Because price is an issue I have to use what I have. The '52 1/2 ton will rest on new "stock height" springs and will not be lowered. I will be using "less expensive" paint. The truck will be used mostly for a driver and fishing rig and rarely if ever used to haul heavy loads but perhaps a small trailer now and then. I live at 4500' in elevation and we have some mountain passes to go over here but most roads are fairly flat.

I have the following: a just acquired Nova rearend; not sure of the gears yet but probably a 2:73 ratio, rebulit TH350 transmission, 283 V8 with two sets of heads that needs to be rebuilt: a set of Power Pak heads and a set of double hump heads 194's, Which set of heads should I use?

I would like to build a reliable daily driver. The 283 does not have a manifold or carb. What do you guys recommend for a manifold and carb to deliver fuel economy? This truck will not be a hot rod.

I will also be running radials and like the skinny look instead of the wide tire look. Any suggestions on tire size knowing the gearing that I will be using? I am thinking of running 15 inch rims since tires are cheaper and I can find 5 by 4 3/4 bolt pattern rims at the local yard.

And to throw a monkey wrench in the thoughts, I also have a 235 that needs to be completely rebuilt and a open driveline four speed transmission to go with it. The 235 needs a intake and exhaust manifolds and carb as well. I also have a torque tube four speed and torque tube as well but I need to be able to drive 60 mph so I was not going to use the torque tube since the aftermarket gears are so expensive.

Thought?, Suggestions?

Thanks for any and all imput, Wayne

Wayne - sounds like you are on a real tight budget. So get real! Your first consideration needs to be how much are you going to spend on BRAKES!! Everything else aside, you have to think of you and yours and safety. And getting these old Chevys to whoa!, is real hard to do with those old drum brakes. Need to upgrade to a minimum of discs on the front and larger drums out back. Contact www.ecihotrodbrakes.com
These guys make the brake parts that everybody else will try to sell to you. Deal with the source of new brake parts directly. Once you have the stopping from 60+ MPH figured out, the drivetrain stuff is easy. Think Chevy!

For intake get an aluminum manifold from a early 80,s 305 in a car. They are plentiful & cheap in the yards or swap meets. If you can rebuild a carb your self the Q-jets from the late 70,s to early 80,s without electronic engine controls are cheap & have great driveability & gas milieage. If it doesnt have electric choke coil put one in.

First thing is to determine the Nova rearend ratio. It really ought to be around 3:40 but what it is is what it is. It would just be nice to know and would work great for your circumstance. With a 2:73 I think you'll spend a lot of time in second gear in the hills.

I'd suggest the power pac heads and a 2 bbl manifold if you can find one which shouldn't be difficult. Use the camelbacks on a hotrod project or sell them to help out on this build. Get a torque type bumpstick. In fact I generally advise people to talk to the cam manufacturers and give them the info you offered here. Their advice is invaluable. Too many only concern themselves with HP and little more when discussing V8 engines. You want something else as you've described it.

I agree with Pit. You need a lower rear end if you are going to do any mountain driveing. An o-drive trans would work good two.

"I live at 4500' in elevation and we have some mountain passes to go over here but most roads are fairly flat." This is what I did, got the low end and high end......see below. Daily driver 6 or 7 years.

I agree with Wrenchbender on the 4 bbl. A 4 bbl will get you better overall economy that a 2 bbl, as most of the time you'll only be using the primaries (assuming progressive linkage type, like the Q-Jet). Those primaries ar actually smaller that the 2 bbl that you would have to use, and you would still have the use if the secondaries if needed for the extra power for hills or passing.
Also, definetly upgrade the brakes. Go for a power assist dual circuit system.

I'd probably go with the power pack heads, a cam with some bottom end torque, a used Performer RPM intake...they're the most common intake around--you should be able to find one in the local bargain shopper, craig's list or ebay for less than $100...easily for less than $100.

A set of shorty headers will also help, or, if you've got some extra money, a set of 2.5-inch rams' horn exhaust manifolds. These are the bigger ones, and are more expensive. Ebay prices are goofy for them, but new ones from YearOne are available, though they're about the same price (nice and clean, with no breaks or rust pits though).

A small 4bbl carb and HEI ignition system would also be the right choice.

Go with a new, 4-row radiator, make sure it has a fan shroud, and spend the money for a fan clutch and an OE-style 7-blade fan. The fan and clutch will be more expensive than you want to spend, but you'll really enjoy it in any kind of traffic or driving up mountains on a hot day. Also, I tried getting a fan from the junk yard, and really paid attention to get a straight one--both were bent when I saw them spinning on the engine. Buy one from a resto supplier. Again, I got mine from YearOne (I work there, but I'd have gotten it there if I didn't, because I was able to research exactly what I needed in their catalogs)
Sounds like a great truck!

-Brad
Oh, and I agree with whoever it was that said upgrade your brakes.

Thanks for all of the replies. I am definitely going to upgrade the brakes. I should have the Nova rearend this weekend and will check the gearing on it. The problem I have is that locally a suitable width rearend at a reasonable price has been impossible to find. I am swapping a piano tuning for the Nova rearend. I know tire size can help compensate for the gearing. I have gone back and forth between the 235 versus the 283 and four speed versus automatic. Part of what has influenced the V8/auto is my 1989 Chevy 3/4 ton 4X4 that has 330000 miles on it with original 700R4 trans and original 350 V8 with 3:08 rearend. This truck still runs great and has been the best pickup I have ever owned. I was thinking of setting up the '52 with a similar arangement. I have not experienced a 235 but I hear they are a good motor as well. Thanks for all of the replies and have fun with your trucks. God bless, Wayne

One more vote for the Power Packs.

You need torque and crisp response not lots of R's, especially with a 2.73 ratio. The smaller valves will help with that.

I've run a 283 in the past and loved it.

I would pull the 2.73's in favor of 3.08's or 3.42's. you can get used gears on ebay cheep cheep (I have seen as low as $15), and new gears on the internet for low$

My experience with 2.73's in a 2000# car was nice, however in a 3000# vehicle, they were a little much on grade. The 3.08 were nearly perfect. A 3.23 gear would be really nice, however rare for GM, more common on other brands.

Get a 4-barrel intake, again, cheep from salvage yards, and cheep from the internet both used and new. For a carb, I am partial to Holley over AFB's and Q-jets. I like the 390cfm for smaller motors.

Just my two cents.

I've done it this way in the past, choose you engine and trans, find out what rpm it likes to run at, decide the type of driving you will do most, choose your rear tires you need to know how TALL they are to choose the best gear ratio. I had a 62 suburban with a 327 4brl carb, 4 sped trans, 3.73 rear end 33" tall tires and got 17 mpg and it was very drivable.