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#83518 09/28/2007 3:49 PM | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 89 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 89 | Hello, I am having trouble getting my clutch to work correctly. I adjust it to the book specs. Start the truck and it won't completely disengage. I end up running the adjuster out untill the throwout is engageing the clutch constantly with a bit more pressure than I feel good about. Any suggestions? The clutch is new, resurfaced flywheel. Would there be a reason the clutch is not fullt extending? Thanks for all replies!
240,000 worker bees!
1960 Two ton Chevy
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#83519 09/28/2007 4:46 PM | Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 586 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 586 | Have a helper depress the clutch and watch the movement(throw).Is the hydro-cyl bleeding past the seals ? Is there air still in the system? Let us know what you see happening .
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#83520 09/28/2007 5:22 PM | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 89 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 89 | It isn't leaking from the slave, thats nice and dry with the dust boot off. When I depress the clutch it doesn't creep or fade like it's leaking. It's almost like the system isn't completing a full stroke.
240,000 worker bees!
1960 Two ton Chevy
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#83521 09/28/2007 6:41 PM | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 | Is it possible that you have the disc in backwards? | | |
#83522 09/28/2007 7:47 PM | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 89 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 89 | The disk can only be installed one way due to the shape of the disk/plate arrangement. You had me thinkin' hard for second though!
240,000 worker bees!
1960 Two ton Chevy
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#83523 09/28/2007 8:45 PM | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Sounds like air in the system to start with. Have you bled it several times?
Could also be a bad seal in the master letting fluid escape past the piston and back into the reservoir.
Grigg | | |
#83524 09/28/2007 8:49 PM | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 89 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 89 | I bled it several times. A few times with a helper pumping and holding like I traditionaly do it. I have also used my power bleeder on it. I didn't consider it leaking past the seal on maybe a poor first portion of the master cylinder stroke. Maybe I should pull that master down and look over the bores?
240,000 worker bees!
1960 Two ton Chevy
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#83525 09/28/2007 8:56 PM | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | It,s best to take the cyls. off & put kits in them. They arn,t expensive. Those rubber cups in those get a lot of wear because they travel the hole cyl. every time. They generally arn,t pitted like brake cyls. get. Then bleed all the air out & it will work good. Back the adjustment rod out so there is at least a little free play in it. Running with it tight can ruin the T.O. brg. & engine crank thrust brg. Sometimes you can adjust the master cyl. rod to get a longer stroke.
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