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#83273 09/22/2007 7:47 PM
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 101
D
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
D Offline
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 101
I found a few threads with this topic but none have really been any help. I have pulled the motor out of my 1941 chevy 3/4 ton. I believe it is a 235 but haven't been able to find the stamp. I have stripped it down to the block and have begun cleaning it up in preparation of rebuilding it. The question I have is one what companies would you recommend for the rebuild kit? Also I am going to get it sandblasted and painted when exactly should I do that and if I option to paint it myself is there certain paints that I should use and producers to follow. Thanks

#83274 09/23/2007 7:23 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
The stamp for ID should be on a pad next to the distributer hole. For parts, I prefer Federal-Mogul (Fel-Pro, Sealed Power, TRW, Melling) available at any good parts store. If they don't have them (or don't want to deal with an old engine) Patrick's and Langdons can hel you out on parts, too.
On the second question, don't sandblast the block!! You'll most likely never get the sand out of it. Take the block and head to the local machine shop. They'll hot tank it, which will remove not only any acumulated crud, but the old paint and rust as well. They'll also mic it and recommend any machinig nesessary, such as boring and any crank work, plus re-babbiting if needed and install the cam bushings. You can also have hardened seats for the valves installed at the same time.
For paint, you'll want to use hi-temp paint speciicly for engines. Seems that the paint from the Filling Station is popular here for best match to the original color. As to whan to paint the block, I did mine before assembly, masking off any holes and gasket areas.


Bill Burmeister
#83275 09/24/2007 2:10 PM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 257
R
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
R Offline
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 257
Delux,

I finished my 235 engine this year and LongBox has covered most of your questions. I will add that you should think about any modifications you want to make before you start to reassemble. Are you going to add full-flow oil filtering? 216 water pump? You need to do any additional drilling in the block before you put any parts back on so you can clean out the filings.

Ordering the kits from Patricks is time consuming, but don't get frustrated, because they will be asking the same questions the machine shop will ask; how much do you want to bore it? You'll have to have the block dipped and mic'd before they will tell you how much you need, then you have to get the pistons/rings from Patricks before they can bore it.

Ask around to find a good machine shop in your area. You don't want to do this more than once per engine.

And finally, I bought Chevy Gray engine paint from Chevs of the 40s, taped off all the openings in the block and painted it in the driveway. I think it came out pretty good. And don't be shocked when you paint it. That gray looks much darker in person than it does in pictures for some reason.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 "One Step Forward, Two Steps Back"
Webshot Photos


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