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#831090 03/01/2012 12:49 AM
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 148
R
Shop Shark
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still having trouble removing brake drum. removed spindle nut & washer, backed of brake pad adjustment totally and still canot remove drum. Was told problem could possibly be rust ring. I used a puller once but did not come of them. I have bought inner and outer bearings so not worried if they get damaged by removing drum, is there anything else i need to worry about before i put puller back on and give it all i can? any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance,red49.

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Soak it down in PB Blaster (or any good penetrant) and let it set for a while. Then get your BFH and whoop the tar outta' that drum (between studs). Put your puller on it if it don't come loose, crank some tension on it and beat the snot out of it some more. Good luck!!

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'Bolter
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Hy red49, there is a chance that the inner bearing could be rusted/siezed to the spindle, a good puller will pull the hub off leaving the inner bearing and seal on the spindle, good luck.

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tcox,3B, thanks for the response. I just wanted someone to tell me that my BFH would finally work. Soaked it down an will get er tomorrow morning.

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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I think you are trying to remove the hub, correct? There is no place for a big hammer in removing the hub. If you have the nut and waasher off, the inner bering race should slide off. normally a little push inward on the drum will cause the bearing to pop out.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
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Hey truckernix, what i am seeing is after I removed the spindle nut and washer the metal housing that holds the bearing balls in place was apart, what I have now is the b balls are still there with a sleeve on the spindle keeping them from coming out. I have tried to gently smack that sleve to see if it will move in or move at all and it is really stuck. Ican grab on to the brake drum and it moves in and out about 1/4" and that is all. I really do not understand what is going on.

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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Bolt a piece of heavy tow chain to one of the lug studs, back off a few feet, and give it a "whiplash" motion. The hub and drum should come off after a few good yanks.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Okay, sounds like two different operations are being discussed here...
One type of drum slips over the lugs and comes off leaving the hub and bearings on the spindle. This one sometimes needs heat or the BFH between the lugs to loosen it around the hub boss.
The other type is riveted to the front or back of the hub face and must be removed with the hub and bearings from the spindle.
The only thing keeping the hub in place after the nut and washers are removed is the inner bearing race of the outer bearing. Until it is removed, the hub isn't moving. If this race is rusted to the spindle, you have some work to do. PB Blaster for a night, then you need to get it to start moving. Hammer and chisel to turn the race on the spindle to break the rust. Last resort, drill through the race on one side, stepping up the size until it is possible to cut the race on one side and expand it with a chisel or screwdriver blade. The race is hardened, so you're going to need good drills for this job.


Current fleet (subject to change w/o notice)
\'49 GMC 3/4-Ton , 60 Austin Healey Frog-eye Sprite (some assembly required), 2011 Dodge Avenger, 2015 Jeep Cherokee. No, they don't all run.
My other ride is a (B737)no, (B767)no, A320.... Update... was Embraer E190, now Boeing B787.

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Joined: Mar 2002
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'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
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I would go with Jerry's method although I would use two studs to keep the bar straight.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!

Moderated by  Dusty53, SWEET 

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