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| | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,282 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 33 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 33 | Anyone have a good source (net or otherwise) on a step by step instruction on how to rebuild drum brakes? Illustrations would be great.
I've got a '64 C-10 and I'm looking to replace my m/c with a dual chamber m/c with a disc/drum power unit.
'64 C10 1/2 ton fleetside
| | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | Find a service manual for your truck, like this one, to explain the procedures. Take off the drums off both sides, but, only take the shoes off one side so you can see the other side for reference. Clean everything real good and repack wheel bearings and seals while you are at it. Let us know how you are coming along. http://www.gregsonline.com/eshop/Shop_Manuals/64TSM.htmMost of the parts you can buy at local parts stores. Check NAPA for new drums if they are out of spec. | | | | Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 33 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 33 | Thanks, Builder! I've got the shop manual coming the mail in the next few days.
'64 C10 1/2 ton fleetside
| | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,066 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,066 | You state that you are going to replace your mc with a disc/drum power unit. That may not work so well. It sounds like you are going to rebuild the drum brakes. The booster/dual mc is a great idea and is a vast improvement but you will need to get a booster/mc combination that was designed for drum brakes. There are a number of aftermarket suppliers that offer these units. Fred
Last edited by rfs56trk; 01/27/2012 5:49 PM.
1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes 1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes 2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans 1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
| | | | Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 33 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 33 | Thanks Fred ... I'm really just in the process of figuring all this out, so any advice from Stovebolters is appreciated. Brakes failed again last night. The pedal just went straight to the floor. Checked the m/c and just air in there. darn ... I was watching the fluid levels like a hawk. Was a couple of miles from home, so added some brake fluid, pumped the brakes a bunch and got a little pressure, so drove home slowly. Very slowly. This truck ain't leaving the driveway again until this is fixed for sure. I can't risk it.
Figure I'll test the m/c to see if it is bad (not that I know how to do that either, but hey ... got to learn sometime) and make a list of other components so that I can figure out what exactly the problem is here by a process of elimination - before I start replacing anything.
Any advice on what that list should look like (in order of priority) would be really, really helpful.
'64 C10 1/2 ton fleetside
| | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,576 back yard wrench turner | back yard wrench turner Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,576 | 1st you need to find the leak. It could be the Wheel cylinders. Wayne1938 1-Ton Farm Truck-30- Stovebolt Gallery ForumsWhen I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it! | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 Extreme Gabster | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 | If one cylinder has failed, others can't be far behind. Replace the entire brake system at once and get it over with. | | | | Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 33 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 33 | Builder, thanks much for the links! Cletis, your logic is sound. Wayne, thanks for the starting point.
Part of the problem for me is that I live in Oregon ... so it rains for about 5 months solid. This weekend looks like we'll actually get some sun, so I'll be able to visually inspect the lines and the drums.
Last edited by BrianW; 01/27/2012 9:39 PM.
'64 C10 1/2 ton fleetside
| | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | If one cylinder has failed, others can't be far behind. Replace the entire brake system at once and get it over with. I agree. It was my intention to say this....but, I guess I didn't. | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 | If the fluid disappeared from the MC and there are no visible leaks on it, for sure you have a leak somewhere else. I would also suggest and end to end rebuild of the hydraulic brake system. | | | | Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 33 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 33 | It was a bad m/c and a hole in the brake line that connected the front driver's side wheel to the front passenger side wheel - i.e. under the engine. Because the m/c was bad, there wasn't enough pressure to really spray the brake fluid through the hole. Once a good one was in, the whole made itself known.
For how hard those bolts on that brake line were to get off, I'd say they hadn't been touched since 1963.
Total cost of the job was about 50 bucks. Nice. Still have to go back and rebuild the drums, but it feels good to know where the failure in the system was.
Thanks for all that gave advice.
'64 C10 1/2 ton fleetside
| | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 Extreme Gabster | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 | What I said about cylinder holds true for brake lines also. They rust through from the inside. | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 725 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 725 | Brian, If memory serves, the front/rear C10 drums are the same and have been since '55 or so. They're CHEAP, too. I just bought a pair for $29.00 each. Unless your drums only need slight turning, I'd much rather replace them. Remember who's backside in in the seat!
best wishes,
Les | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | For as cheap as the parts are for these trucks, I wouldn't even mess around. I would replace all components and be done with it. | | |
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