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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 304 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 304 | On that 2" seam approx. 6" below rear window. (52 3100) The raised "hump" that goes horizontily (spelling) all the way from side door to side door- I realize that this section of cab was welded in at assembly but when painting, do u fill any crack between the seams or does the cab have to flex or expand/contract at that point? It just seems to me that the top edge is filled in and solid while the bottom edge may be left "open" (crack exposed) for some reason.
'52 3100 "once a Marine, always a Marine!!
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 304 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 304 | So I'm wondering if I should fill the outside bottom "crack"? Guess it wouldn't hurt. It would look better smooth. I just didn't want to fill it if that area needed to move or flex.
'52 3100 "once a Marine, always a Marine!!
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 554 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 554 | Panhead, my vote would be to fill your bottom crack with seam sealer. I did that on my 1952 but have yet to start driving it so I can't speak to flex problems. Mine looks good but it takes some care to get it that way. I have seen a couple of these trucks that did not seal that area and they had small amounts of rusty drainage from the area they could never stop.
Chuck | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 |
I clean that area out (the seam-area around the entire cab) as best as possible, then blow it out, then drizzle in rust-converter, then drizzle in epoxy primer, then apply body-filler and sand/smooth so the seam is not visible, and then seal/prime/paint when you paint the cab.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | Lead might be an option,alternatively there are good flexible,paintable seam sealers available.
Most modern quality body fillers are to some degree pretty flexible too.
I don't think there should be a lot of movement in that area of the cab anyway.
1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 56 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 56 | The seam just below the belt line where the top of the cab meets the lower cab is sealed with seam sealer. If you have a assembly manual, take a look at Sect 14 sheet 9.00. It describes the application of the seam sealer. If you do not have a assembly manual, just let me know and I can scan the page and email it to you.
Dave
1966 Chevrolet Caprice 2 Door Hardtop (396 Big Block)
1951 GMC 9434 5 Window (waiting on a 292 transplant)
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 304 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 304 | Thanks guys, i'll seal it with seam sealer or mud
'52 3100 "once a Marine, always a Marine!!
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