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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 18
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 18
Hey guys I need some advice and want to say thank you in advance. I'm proud to be associated with this group of Bolters - you guys are the best!!

I'm rebuilding the front suspension on my 57 - 3100. I've replaced the king pins and did a complete brake job but was unable to save the brake drums. They were too far gone having spent 35 years buried in the mud.

Went to my FLAPS auto parts store and was able to purchase two new front brake drums. I noticed one of the drums has a lead weight glued to the face. It's small enough that it won't interfer with the wheel. I've done my share of brake jobs over the years but have never noticed a brake drum balanced with weights - I guess all of them I've dealt with didn't need to be balanced.

What do you guys think - Should I take it back to the store or do you think I'm over reacting and it will be OK? Getting ready to paint it so wanted your opinions before I do.

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
Usually they will have steel weights spot welded to outside of the drum if they need balancing.

If it is truly a lead weight glued to it I would not expect the glue to last long with the heat that can be generated.

So, yes, it's not unusual for a drum to be balanced with an external weight.
If it is welded on it's supposed to be there.
I it is glued on then take it back, as it won't last.

If you want to find out, use the propane torch on it, it either sticks or falls off. The drum could even get hot enough to melt lead.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,953
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,953
More drum dilemma. Raybestos drums for a 53 here are $90 each but I can get ones made in China for $30. Is that a scary thought or is it doable?


1949 Chevy 1/2-Ton
"Sedgewick"
In the Gallery
1989 Caprice
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
Get the good ones.

Both auto parts stores I deal with also sell two makes of the same drums and disc.
And both places never recommend the cheep ones. They say people who buy them come back for more much more often than people who buy the good ones.


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 202
H
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
H Offline
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 202
Grigg is right! Avoid the Chinese junk. Their metal is too soft and don't last long. Same with ball joints, rotors, tie rod ends, master cylinders, water pumps, radiators, heater cores and cheap starters/alternators and such. They are cheaper in more than one way. Buy American if at all possible. Stick with name brands like Raybestos, Wagner, A-1 Cardone, genuine GM parts and such. Just make sure they are made here and not over there. Many farm their work to the Asians. So you have to be careful. Of course in an emergency they will work..........well sort of. I wish you well on your rebuild of that 57'. Keep em' rolling.


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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