The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks tranny swap

i want to pull my 3 on the tree out of my 66 short bed ss and install a s-10 t5 tranny. has anyone everdone this swap?

Hooboy, I have; or rather I am in the middle of doing the same swap in my '62 (235/6 cyl)short bed/step side. I'm very grateful that I have a couple of expert mechanics helping me. This is definitely NOT a bolt-in swap, although many things do actually bolt up. The good news is that the tranny does have matching bolt holes to the stock 6 cylinder bellhousing. You may also use the stock pressure plate and throwout bearing (if you have a hydraulically slaved clutch; if it's not a hydraulic clutch, I don't have a clue). Now, you have a choice. Do you want to shorten both the input shaft (the pilot bearing portion) by 1/2" and the front transmission bearing support by the same distance? Or, do you want to use a purpose built 1/2" spacer between the tranny and the bellhousing and don't cut anything? Either will work. I chose the spacer method simply because I already had one from a previous project. Finally, you will need to find an appropriate clutch disc. The stock pressure plate will accept anything from a 9" to 10.5" diameter disc. The important issues are that the disc fits the input splines of your T-5 (mine is a 14 spline) and that splined center of the disc is no more than 3/4" thick and is centered in the disc plate (it cannot be offset in either direction). I got a 10.5 McLeod performance disc that is 5/8" thick at the center and fits perfectly in between the pressure plate and flywheel. Use grade 8 bolts in every circumstance and don't forget to fabricate/build a tranny tailshaft mount, too. You can use a simple Anchor mount with a single lower bolt, then make a bracket that supports from below and bolts to the front of your existing crossmember. Then shorten your driveshaft (mine will be 52" from center to center of the U-joints) and you're ready to go. Oh one more thing; did I mention that the T-5 is taller than your stock three speed...by a lot! At least 1.5 inches taller; and it doesn't fit with your stock floorboard and a portion of your firewall in place, either. Get ready for some serious shop floor tranny tango. It was a real bummer to cut a portion out of my lower central firewall since my floorboards were in pristine condition. Anyway, you are going to have to either find an original 4 speed floor pan to modify and install, or fabricate your own sheetmetal to replace what you have to cut out for tranny clearance. Some other issues to watch out for are the shifter location; you need the forward shifter location. The size of the shifter base (note if it is approx 3"X4" or larger)...they each require different shifters and most will be for the larger Mustang opening. Also, pay attention to the speedometer output...if it is an electronic sender, you will need to buy a converter from one of the gauge companies to keep your original cable speedo. Better is getting a tranny with a mechanical (cable drive) output. Just do your homework in advance. Finally, you should be aware that there are a variety of transmissions available; the gear ratio combinations differ between model numbers. You'll want to match them up to your final drive ratio and tire size for optimum performance. Mine should be done in a week or so...I hope! Bill

Wish you could pull up some of my past posts. I am in the process of switching now with a lot of advice from bolters.
I left Michigan when the snow hit and am setting in Florida thinking how much I have to do to finish the job. About 1/2done when I left.

Iam glad i read this thread,as i am putting a t-5 in my 62 also.I thought i had it all figured out, but imaflyer says i need the high floor hump.Nobody else mentioned that in the other posts i read.

have you been taking pics of the floor pan/sheet metal modifications if post them of send them to my e-mail address if you can. whats your differential gear ratio?

I have been taking photos and I'll post them as soon as I get the project finished. I did want to clarify that the change over to the "big hump" transmission tunnel is relatively simple and pretty darn close to a bolt-in; it completely solves all of the clearance issues. With a little luck, I found both covers in a couple of days. We did have to drill out the spot welds to remove the front cover from the donor vehicle, but the holes can be easily filled before installation. Some of these panels were bolted in rather than spotwelded.

Gentlemen,
I'm with 62 Mark, I am glad that I found this thread as well. Good information posted, iamaflyer. I really enjoyed reading everything you posted like a check list. It also has re-iterated what I have read, looked up, researched and went from site to site. I found this thread by search "drive shaft" because I am now moving towards finding the drive shaft that will work with my build. Do not get me wrong, I still have not bolted my t5 to my 235. I have everything in pieces and soon it will be time to assemble everything together. I run into a lot of "whats next" and "if I put this here, what needs to be there." I'll be the first person to admit that I do not know what I am doing....

My fist thought when reading this is that maybe we can learn from each other and because we are doing somewhat the same thing.
I have a trany at the shop for an op check. Once I get it back with a thumbs up, I'll marry it up with my engine. The trans bottom two holes are going to get some type threading done by the same shop is checking the trans. once I get the trans, bellhouseing, clutch kit, all together, I will marry them together.
Here is where the next class begins for me; the part of the engine that the trans inserts in to will need a pilot bushing and or a pilot bearing. I ordered a pilot bushing but I am not sure in I need a pilot bearing as well. The engine didn't have one when the trans and engine was separated.

Here is a quick back look at what I have done.
Mustang II font w/airbags, disk breaks, rack-n-pinon
Four link rear end w/ airbags, [censored] breaks, currie rear end.
Recently had the frame sandblasted so I'll paint it this weekend. From there, I'll start assembling the suspension. Then, I'll mount the engine w/trany and get my measurements for the drive shaft.

More to follow if anyone is interested in following my endeavors.

I would like to know how everyone's else are coming along.

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