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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 | Ill be replaceing the exhaust/intake manifold gasket on the 230 this weekend. Been 15 years since last one was done. Do I need to you any sealant on the new gasket? | | | | | Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 1,002 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 1,002 | Make sure both surfaces are clean. Then put a straight edge to them and check to see that they are not warped. If they are not warped then your go to go. If you want to use some sealer the hi-temp copper sealer is good.
Larry
I don't own a vehicle that isn't old enough to drink. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,223 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,223 | I like the high temp silicons, but anything made for high temp will work.
Clean the manifolds and head really good, use a DA sander or Scotch Brite pads, anything except a grinder!
Is the gasket between the intake and exhaust still good? or is just the one between the block and the two manifolds?
To change both, start by removing the three bolts holding the two intakes together, go slow and easy so you don't snap one off. Having the engine hot helps, sometimes, so does soaking them with solvent for a few days. Once apart, clean both surfaces and replace the gasket with sealer on both sides, do not tighten the bolts all the way yet.
Place the new block gasket on the head studs with sealer on both sides and hang the manifold. Start in the center and tighten bolts working outwards alternating side to side. Once the manifold bolts are snug, tighten the three that hold the exhaust to the intake, then finish the manifold to the head bolts. It sounds like a lot of work but really isn't. Holding the whole mess in place while starting the first few is the worst of it.
Joe | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 | I ve done one before, just been 15 years and another 63 chevy, so I'm familiar with the process, but thanks for the refresh on it. The gasket between the two manifolds is ok, but I'll replace anyways. I'll get some sealer today. One side of the exhaust/intake gasket is smooth metal and one is patterned...which side goes towards head...the smooth side?
Last edited by jon1963; 12/08/2011 6:32 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 | Tried to go out last night and do a check on the manifold to see if in fact I have a leak, but darn 60mph gusts and sideways rain wasn't helping my cause. Also...have to choke so much Im not sure ill hear an rpm drop anyways. I think for the sake of it, I'll just replace the gaskets anyways, reclean carb, check plugs, replace fuel/air filter and pray. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | Jon, I just went through this with my '56 half-ton. My exhaust manifold was warped 1/16 of an inch. I used Permatex Ultra Copper with a new gasket and it sealed up. It was actually recommended to me by the machinist as an alternative to milling the manifold. Not the cleanest solution, I know, but it was what I chose to go with and it worked.
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 | Joe...did your engine have the same problem...only running with the choke out? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | No, I had disassembled mine to clean all the crap out of the intake manifold (heavy varnish from old gas sitting there for years). I couldn't get the manifolds to seal against the block because I bolted them together first. Then the guys here advised me it was best to leave them loose. Then I discovered the exhaust manifold was cracked. I found a replacement at a salvage yard that turned out to be warped. More info than you wanted, I know, but that's how I wound up using the Ultra Chrome.
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 4 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 4 | every 194-292 engine i,ve seen when the gasket is bad the intake & exhaust manifold needs to go to machine shop and get machined ture and matching again. there very touchy . best to do it right 1st time. imo bob
I BELIEVE IN JOHN 3:16
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 | replaced gasket this weekend, which was not bad. Still at the same problem. Only runs w/choke out. New fuel pump replaced (under warrenty), new fuel/vac lines and installed a fuel pressure guage which reads 4psi. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,223 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,223 | Sounds like carb rebuild time. You might also plug all vacuum hose ports just to be sure one is not leaking someplace. It would have to be a 3/8" hose to really make it run as you describe. Double check the timing.
Joe | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 | Pluged the vacuum at the carb, only 1 on the model B rochester. It goes to the vacuum advance. Didn't change anything. The only other vacuum line is the 3/8" line that goes to the PCV valve and I replaced that and the Pcv valve as well. I haven't messed with the timing, but Im down to check that as well. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 | Have new carb kit reserved at NAPA, let you know im morn if any change | | |
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