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| | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 42 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 42 | Please, will someone who really knows their good from the bad tell me where to get weather-strip for my vent windows - 63 - as the stuff from steelerubber seems to have had the misfortune to have shrunk somewhat on transit, there's a gap on both sides severe enough to comprehensively eliminate that old "hey what the heck its never going to be like the original!"
Last edited by John Milliman; 11/29/2011 1:50 AM. Reason: Language
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 72 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 72 | Why not just return it for a new one? Steele makes some of the best stuff out there. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 119 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 119 | I got mine through Harmon's in Indiana. Worked just fine.
Thom Masterson
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 | Most all of the usual suspects sell the vent window rubbers. Installing the rubber, is a rather invasive process, when done properly, to emulate the quality, fit, finish & function of the unmolested original equipment. Steele Rubber Products is well-known for their reproduction rubber items and your experience is an unusual occurance. Have you discussed the experience with Steele? I would be surprised if they didn't make every effort to course-correct the issue. You can also try: www.lmctrucks.comwww.classicparts.comwww.bowtiebits.comwww.oldchevytrucks.comwww.truckandcarshop.comGood luck and keep us posted on the outcome. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 | Speaking on Vent window rubber, is there any suggestions on get the rubber in the frame? I was told you don't want to use vaseline or other type grease, because of the deterioration of the rubber, but man this s a PITA to get in. And the use of the rivits are no fun either. I had read on one of the post that using the 3-M brand adheavsive was OK? Ideas?
Last edited by V-6 Fix Modelman; 11/30/2011 2:23 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 | Don't know about fitting rubber to "newer" vent windows, but the rubber for my '54 from The Truck Shop went on pretty easily. I used dish detergent to lube - it will wash off with rain or a car wash. I used the little rivet tool from most parts suppliers to set the rivets in the vent rubber and the pivot rivet. Backed up with a piece of 3/8" plate in a vice. My wife held the parts while I pounded the rivets. No major problems.
Again, don't know about newer trucks - I had to massage the vent rubber to lie on top of the window interior garnish of my '54. An old credit card and a small screwdriver helped.
- Lonnie My '54 3104Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post. lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt. OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 | V6modelman, I just did my 64 vent windows using Steele rubber, mine fit fine. I used a "bone", a nylon window/glass/glazing stick tool to install the rubber into the channel. It was at least a two beer process IIRC. I found inserting one side down into the channel, then pushing the other side in using the bone was best for me. I did it dry-using lube in those type channels just seems to make it slide back out too easily. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | ...in the 52 I just sprayed them with windex and put one edge in and pushed the other down.
I had a set from a vendor in Missouri but decided to spring for the ones from Steele. I drove up to their place and paid dearly for the two wing vent rubbers and to be honest, I compared them and rubbed them and just could not justify buying this particular set from them if I do another. Not bad mouthing Steele one bit, just my observation/opinion. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 42 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 42 | Okay, so should say first off, glad some folks took the time to throw in their pennies worth.
Truth is, didn't reckon on anyone much would be that interested - subjects hardly gonna set the sky alight.
Regarding matter in question, close inspection of removed original against replacement provided by Steele shows up some mild differences in shape and style, subtle yes, but enough to cause, in my instance, a shortcoming
As well as Steele there's also Softseal and Fairchild and, I shouldn't wonder, some others I've not as yet uncovered. This C20 project has turned up some intriguing aspects regards the manufacture of the same thing by different producers - devils in the detail.
For example - stay with me here - a rear axle bump-stop from LMC differs markedly from that sold by competitors ClassicParts. Looks identical but one is soft and fits snug as a bug, other is rock solid and fits loose as 5XL on Junior.
So ya see I now know somes good and somes not, even when we're comparing same for same. Simlpes! Nope? Probably never! | | |
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