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| | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 | My new toy, the '69 C-10, would idle hen I bought her. 2 weeks ago a buddy brought over his engne analyzer and we tweaked the carb to acheive 700 RPM at idle. Then last weeend, it wouldn't idle again. I know this is a general question without details, but shouldn't a carb rebuild most likely fix that issue? | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Yes, is it Q-jet? if so it may require a "seal job". Which is easy to do. they leak at the plugs. Get a good kit, clean all parts by soaking in carb solvent and reassemble properly. It is not hard to do, I have done many rochesters. You need to look up the number to see what year the carb ACTUALLY is. May not be a 69 carb. That's OK but you need to know.
Last edited by bartamos; 11/21/2011 5:04 AM.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 | The method I use to seal the well plugs is clean them wire a soft wire brush, then mix JB Weld and coat the plugs and the solder joints. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 | It's a Rochester Monojet. The thought of going in scares me, but excites me at the same time! I think I may learn something... | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,231 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,231 | The hardest part about a mono-jet is the little linkage rods on the side that control the internal pieces. Clean it really good using spray carb cleaner or soaking it in carb cleaner. Be sure and blow through all the holes. You should be able to breeze right through this job!
Joe | | | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 | bartamos, what number? is it something on the carb? | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | yes, on the bowl (center section) seven digits starting with 7xxxxxx. (It could have a metal ID tag on one of the screws also). Then look it up here http://www.carbkitsource.com/manuals/carbmanuals/CM081.htmlTo see what kit to buy. Or tell Orielly's, or auto parts store you like, the number on the carb. ALWAYS take pictures of all angles of the carb and linkage before and during dis-assembly. Do not be worried about the rebuild. It is straight forward. the kit comes with instructions and we will help you. Clean and blow out all orifices, don't loose anything, disassemble in a catch pan, we will explain the plug seal later. As said JB Weld works well. These plugs are where they drilled various holes to create passageways within the carb that could not be cast. Yours will have the press in or spin in kind. The press in kind are the one's that leak the most after time and need to be sealed during rebuild. There seems to be an early monojet (67-7x) and later monojet (80's). You can go here http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/tech/Rochester/Monojet-index.html(same company as other link) and click on each CK number to find a picture of what yours looks like to further identify which kit. He is in Canada and shipping is high.(I have been very happy with his kits) But at least you can identify your carb to get a kit elsewhere if you can find one. The gallon of cleaner to soak the parts in is sold by O'rielly's for $20 and includes a parts basket. 4-8 hrs is enough. After soak, spray them all off with carb cleaner, then brake cleaner, then soap and water, then water, then blow dry. please wear goggles. The gal of cleaner can be sealed and used for other stuff. It is really neat to have a carb you rebuilt that actually starts and runs an engine, you'll see! Get a nice table and chair and good light and take your time. open the carb slowly and peek inside to see how things are positioned. All experts had a first time. And you have all of us. You will learn float level and float drop adjustment. (easy) and how to install accelerator pump. Be sure to do a bunch of searching on the web, you will get allot of knowledge/pictures there so as to be familiar with your carb before rebuilding.
Last edited by bartamos; 11/22/2011 2:09 AM.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 | Thanks very much for the pointers! The # on mine is 7029021. I'm not quite sure what I should find on the carbkitcourse site with that... | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | BINGO! it's a 1969 6cyl 250 Cu In Monojet carb. Ask for that at the store using the number also.
$14 at O'rielly's
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Carburetor+Kit/02447/C0359.oap?keyword=carburetor+kit&year=1969&make=Chevrolet&model=C10%2BPickup&vi=1310233
Last edited by bartamos; 11/22/2011 3:58 AM.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 | | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | See my edit, I don't know why it did not hypertext.
Last edited by bartamos; 11/22/2011 4:07 AM.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 | Awesome...thanks, bartamos! | | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 52 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 52 | Another thing to check is the timing, if the mechanical weights are sticking in the dist. It may cause a high idle or slow return to idle.
52' Chevy 6400 2 ton
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