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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 55
M
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
M Offline
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 55
I noticed there is a hole in the frame on the backside of each spring pin. My question is do i drive them through the frame or insert the punch there and drive them toward the outside, or does it even matter?

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
Sometimes they don't line up perfectly to drive them to the inside, I usually drive them from the inside out.
Whichever works is fine.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
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"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,038
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,038
I would suggest you use a floor jack under the springs, just enough to take the weight of the springs off the pins. This was a suggestion of the spring shop that reworked my springs on my COE. The manual says to use a slide hammer to remove the pins. You would remove the grease zerk and insert the slide hammer fitting that screws into the hole. A generic slide hammer I bought at a parts place had the proper fitting as part of the kit (?1/8" pipe thread or whatever a standard grease zerk is). Three of the four pins for both sides of the rear springs came out rather easily with the slide hammer. On one I had to use a punch to get it out and I drove it from the inside out as Grigg said.

Kent

Last edited by Lightholder's Dad; 11/15/2011 4:57 AM. Reason: typo

1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
1942 Chevy 1/2 ton
1947 Diamond T Model 509
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton
1950 Chevy COE Model 5700 ~ "Barney" ~ And more pix
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 55
M
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
M Offline
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 55
ok thanks for the replies!


Moderated by  69Cuda, Super55 

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