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#797669 11/14/2011 1:47 AM
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'Bolter
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I have a couple of questions about windshields on my 41. First are both pains of glass mirror images of each other, meaning, I have one good one, can I use it as a patter for both sides, I think so. Next, on the windshield frame there are 4, two on each side about 4 inches from center on top and bottom, counter sunk flat head screws, I have had no luck removing them yet, but I haven't gotten serious yet. I've taken the weather stripping off and glass out and still can't see what purpose these screws serve, does any one have any idea. By the way they are all on the inside portion of the windshield. Dave


1941 Chevy
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I am pretty positive the glass pieces are a mirror image of eachother.

The screws that you are talking about go into a bar on the inside of the frame. The bars (one on top and one on the bottom) keep the two halves of the winshield together.

I think there is a tech tip on this site about taking one apart. I know on mine I had to drill the screws out, then cut a slot from the inside center edge thru the screw holes just to get the bars out.

Thirtyniner


39 chevy 1/2 ton
48 chevy fleetline aerosedan
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'Bolter
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I'll look more closly tomorrow but I don't think those bars are that long.


1941 Chevy
"First rebuild - complete!"
Follow the story in the DITY
1941 GMC resting peacefully
1946/1947 Chevy Street rod on s10 frame complete
1945 GMC panel truck in line for restoration
1941 Plymouth stock complete
1941 GMC COE in restoration process
Read his Project Journal
1941 Chevy Coe uncertain future resting now
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Posts: 1,312
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'Bolter
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I think '39r' is correct on the Vee bars. Only way to hold the two halves together. On mine, the screws came out after a little penetrating oil, however, the bars were rusted in really tight. Took a lot of soaking and wiggling to break them loose.


1940 Chevy KC 1/2-Ton
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'Bolter
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Hi Homer:

Yes the two sides of the glass are mirror images. As for the screws top and bottom they screw into a brace that is slipped into the hollow windshield frames holding the two sides together, one at the top and one at the bottom of the windshield. These are notorious for being stuck. There is a Tech Tip under “Windows” that briefly covers this. This brace is about ¼” by a ½”, a couple of the regular suppliers carry these, but I have read they are bent at the wrong angle. When I finally got mine apart I had one in ok shape and one in several pieces. Using the complete one as a guide I made two myself. They seem to work ok.


1941 Chevy Master 3/4-Ton
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How do you get the V bars out of the window frame as mine are rusted in the window frame and frozen solid ? My window frame is in pretty good shape.Is there any way to drill them out as I don't think a little penetrating oil will help ? Any suggestions?

Last edited by cvett; 11/15/2011 1:20 AM.
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K
'Bolter
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I ended up cutting away one side of the window frame with my Dremel. It is a hollow box shaped frame. Then drilled and tapped the broken end of the solid brace with 10-32 threads, screwed in a 10-32 bolt, clamped the bolt head in a set of vicegrips and with the windshield frame clamped lightly in a vice taped the vicegrips. A lot of gentle heating and alternating WD40 and Liquid Wrench probably helped. After the whole thing was cleaned up and the new brace installed I welded the piece of the frame that I had cut away back into place. I have one sort of clear photo that I’ll send to your e mail


1941 Chevy Master 3/4-Ton
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I used new V bars, and my window does not seat against the cab frame at the bottom corners.Can someone let me Know of a company they used that the V bar is bent correctly?

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'Bolter
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where did you get your v-bars. I found out mine were broken, that's why I couldn't figure out what was happening. NOW to get the old screws out, I've got them in the electrolasis bath now.


1941 Chevy
"First rebuild - complete!"
Follow the story in the DITY
1941 GMC resting peacefully
1946/1947 Chevy Street rod on s10 frame complete
1945 GMC panel truck in line for restoration
1941 Plymouth stock complete
1941 GMC COE in restoration process
Read his Project Journal
1941 Chevy Coe uncertain future resting now
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,312
B
'Bolter
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I ended up having to purchase a new window frame due to bad rust in the corners. I got it from Jim Carters - came with bars that were bent to the right angles.


1940 Chevy KC 1/2-Ton
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Like britcon said. I also got a new frame from JC's and had no problem, this was two years ago.

If I remember correctly I had problems with the center outside stainless trim divider that separates the halves. Either it was an extremely expensive replacement part or it wasn't obtainable anywhere at the time. Anyway, the metal plate in it was rusted out. So I fab'd a new one and set it with fiberglass resin in the divider.

Last edited by 641Workmaster; 11/16/2011 2:15 AM.

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While we are talking about the stainless center bar....I bought the rubber gasket from Jim Carters. I screwed around trying to get that * thing slid into the stainless for weeks !!!
Finally gave up and bought the whole assembly ( stainless with rubber inserted ) from Steeles. Worked great.

Last edited by cletis; 11/16/2011 7:04 PM. Reason: language

1940 Chevy KC 1/2-Ton
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'Bolter
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What Steeles are you talking about, I can't find them. Dave


1941 Chevy
"First rebuild - complete!"
Follow the story in the DITY
1941 GMC resting peacefully
1946/1947 Chevy Street rod on s10 frame complete
1945 GMC panel truck in line for restoration
1941 Plymouth stock complete
1941 GMC COE in restoration process
Read his Project Journal
1941 Chevy Coe uncertain future resting now
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Steele Ruber Products. They have an on-line catalog.


Martin
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