The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts What's the best carb for a 235?

In my '46 1.5T, I have a nice 1954 235. It's sporting a Rochester BV carb on a single-carb (stock) manifold. I have had various problems with that carburetor. Is it just me/my lack of mech skills? I feel like the engine is starved for fuel sometimes. -- is there some tried-&-true setup that the insiders know? Anyone out there THRILLED with their 235's carb setup and like to share? I'm not going to change the intake manifold. I just want opinions on the best reliable, set it and forget it carb. Thanks guys!

Very same problem for me on 45 chev.

I'll be really interested in the responses to this post as well. I'm getting ready to buy a rebuilt Roch. but.........well......I dunno if it'll be much better than what I already have.

Check your fuel delivery. Make sure the fuel pump is working, check the tank for dirt and rust. If all of those are good then get a kit for your carburetor and install it.

What is the proper procedure to adjust a carburetor after one has rebuilt it?
On mine after it is all warmed up, when I get to a stop lite it always wants to quit. It will start right up again and goes down the road great.
I must have something not adjusted right.

I have a Carter W-1 on my 235.

DR

Just curious if this is a new problem or has it run like this for a while. The reason I ask is that my truck started running bad with similar symptoms. It felt like it was lacking fuel on higher acceleration. Turned out to be a bad fuel filter and I suspect that it might have something to do with todays fuel and the rubber fuel lines that are not compactable.
Just a thought and an easy fix.

Fuel delivery is right. In my case there's very low "crud factor" for some reason (yay) - hardly any rust --- Mostly what i was hoping for was someone who's really happy with their carb on a '50s 235 (not the EARLY 235 which, IMHO, should be perfectly happy with a W-1) Yes, carb kit has been installed. Not by me, but possibly by the same raccoon who let the glob of silicone get in there... maybe it's time to rebuild yet again...

Just a thought, have you had the timing checked and are you still running points? I switched over to a pertronics ignitor and with a new Rochester Carb on my 46 1.5 ton and it runs great.

Hi! Here's what I found out on mine.I had the same problems as described above-and my rochester carb was new/rebuilt out of the box, with a new fuel tank and fuel lines.After 2 days of adjusting,cursing,and scotch(in me,not the truck) I came across a site that mentioned the VARIOUS size jets...available for them-based on engine size,manifolds,etc. I dismantled mine, swapped for a larger jet, and it smoothed right out! here's some info on Rochester carb.jet sizes,and hopefully you may solve it. I've got a 261, and mine was a 54 I think. Good luck, steve
46' 1 1/2 ton Panel / rochester info.

I love the Rochester info site...LOL! I have one on my '52 6400 and my 1968 Land Rover! Great carbs.

Hey! I bought a carb kit for my '55 2nd- series 2-Tonner, same kit as pick-up 235's. From what I've learned, Chevrolet used the B-style carb on their 216's,235's,261's,and 250's,from the late '30's up until the early '60's. If this set-up was good enough when the truck was new,as far as I'm concerned, it's still good enough today. I purchased my rebuild kit from L.M.C.,and I think the list price was around 13.00, not including shipping. This has got to be about the simplest carb to overhaul,too! (PLUS-PLUS)!! It took me longer to clean the crud out of the body,than it did to rebuild it. Just make double-dam-sure that you use the float gauge (included),or else you will experience either flooding issues,or fuel-starvation issues. The float-set is a little tricky,but once you get her adjusted,she ought to purr like a kitten. I hope this helps! Sincerely: Bill Hickey

I put a 2 barrel vacuum secondary of a 1980's honda 1600 on my '47 216. These are a Keihin carb and the secondary venturi is about the same as the Chev. The primary is a lot smaller. The truck has the cab off right now so I cant drive it. But idling and running so far look very promising.
The float level is adjustable and I had to lower it until the main jet on the primary venturi stopped flowing at idle. Then I could adjust the idle mix and speed for a nice 4-500 rpm idle.
This is not a conversion for power although the total flow is probably 10% more than the rochester original. I expect it will go better and use way less gas. It appears to run very clean right now. I wont know how good until I can hit the road.
I had to make a manifold adaptor and rejig the throttle linkage.
Float level, within linits, doesnt affect the volume of fuel flowed and I expect it to run well. The NZ Hondas had no emmissions gear and this helps. I bought two for $39 each, mint condition.
So you may find a good alternative carb off some vehicle you were not expecting. The Jap Keihins were great carbs.

I run a Rochester B style on my '53 235. I purchased a rebuild kit from NAPA, but the one they sold me was not correct. I had fuel issues up the wazzo, so after all new fuel system, tank to carb. I was stumped. Went back to NAPA and got out the old book, still nothing. I went back and did my own investigations on the NAPA website and found the right carb kit. Rebuilt the carb again, and runs like a top now. Was having the same fuel starvation problems as you are describing until I found the right carb kit number. I found my carb kit by looking at the very distinct accelerator pump. Kit number on mine was 2-5194A. Did not come up on NAPA's database at the store, but was online. Cost me about 12 bucks.

There was an old slogan back in the 1950's that still holds true today:

"The ABC's of carburetion- - - - - -Always Buy Carter!"

When GM decided to build their own Rochester carburetor for Chevy instead of buying them from Carter, the CEO of Carter promised to sell a million replacement carbs for Rochesters. It only took him 6 years to accomplish that feat! He had the 1-millionth replacement carburetor gold-plated and presented it to the CEO of GM.
Jerry

Never heard that before, very interesting and fun reading - thanks Jerry.

I've had nothing but trouble out of the rochester B and monojet on my 54 3100. I had a whole box of the B's and they all would black the plugs.and seep gas out to the outside. I read somewhere on this forum that the fix for this is to switch to a Carter YF 966 which is a direct replacement for the B . It fits and runs perfectly, like never before. The trouble with the B mostly is with warped castings. Forget the monojet it also fits perfectly and is better than the B, but it has trouble too. The trick is to find one of these carters and be prepared to pay the price. Sincerely, Gene Weaver

I put 2 1bbl Rochester's on an Offenhauser intake and it runs and idles real good. I haven't had it on the road yet, but I don't foresee any problems. It ran real good before I began the restore with a single on it. I like the Rochester. You can almost put the parts in a box and shake it up and it's rebuilt when it comes out

My "49

Just put a Reman Carter YF 966 from Tomco on my 6400. Matched up perfect. Runs great!

ABC

I've been tempted to pick up a Weber for my 261. If you know how to tune those things, you can slap one on just about anything.

Has anyone put a Stromberg 97 Carb on a 235 motor? They seem to be easier to obtain than a Carter YF966.

anyoldiron The best carb for the 235 ?? Almost any forklift propane carb !!! I note that most stovebolters love to fight chokes,liquid fuel,cold natured startand run,fuel pumps,dirty tanks,ethanol,soak your cylinders with gasoline,fight sludge and so on! Wouldn't trade for even one gasoline carb. Simple stuff ,buy it new on Amazon,fuel is about 1.45$ with motor fuel tax ! Hey go ahead and butt your head against the gas pump !!!

Riggles I fought strombergs in the 50,s a real piece of trash that is liable to burn your truck up ! Learned tu use propane equipment in a bout 1988 . Follow the safety guidelines never a mishap. My best injected 04 GMC has done 62000 miles so far. If there is a leak she will tell you,especially in the garage !!! LOL

sleeve Wish you were here could just give you a pile of those,however will have to sell for cores !!

John Ton Had my opinion on an LP burner (have7 )but it ldsy in the clouds.

You have to go with what works for you. We had Rochester model B' son both of our wreckers and both of our tank trucks in the 50's and 60's. These trucks worked well for us and you could always depend on them. Also they were simple to rebuild and keep adjusted. I also spent about 45 years working as a mechanic, and always liked working on them.
Just my experience for what it is worth.
Jim

DR Are you sure your ground cables are good??

Weber 32-36. Progressive 2 barrel, right around 400 CFM. Tom Langdon @ Langdon stovebolts.com sells them with adapter for around $250. He knows what he's talking about when it comes to carburetors. They work great as a single or a double. Carbs include linkage

DR Check your grounds.

JohnTon responded to your question but it went in the clouds.

John Ton Have only seen one referance to propane outside of mine,my 7 units run great on it. 4 items tank,hose,vaporizer,forklift carburetor!!

I maintained a fleet of LP gas powered vehicles in the mid-1970's- - - - -stinky, underpowered pieces of "fertilizer"! I'm a little crippled up from a motorcycle wreck, but I think I could still outrun anybody who wanted to give me anything other than a grill or a BBQ smoker powered by Propane!
Jerry

Here are some of my Rochester B thoughts from the last 44 years......

One of the biggest problems with the Rochester B is actually the manifold gasket included in most of the rebuild kits. The B uses a vacuum signal from the manifold to lift the plunger on the enrichening circuit. Many of the rebuild kits use a gasket that does not have the hole open for the enrichening circuit - hence you drive around super rich all the time.

Second problem with the Rochester B is that the brass enrichening plunger gets stuck in its bore and cannot be moved by the vacuum signal - you simply need to clean it up without creating too much clearance. The opposite issue is simply have the bore/plunger worn excessively. Pretty easy job to turn a new one on a lathe, especially if you simply counter bore and press a dowel in for the pin that contacts the spring loaded ball in the enrichening circuit.

Next issue is the worn butterfly valve shaft holes. Readily apparent when you cannot set idle mix correctly. Drill and bush is the easiest repair.

Another issue is tightening down the lid mount screws too much and warping the mounting ears. Original gaskets used an impregnated paper that did not weep gas. All the rebuild kits I've seen use a simple paper gasket that readily weeps gas. I have had good luck milling the ears flat and being very careful when setting the float level and not over tightening the mounting screws. I've also dropped the fuel level on one carb between 1/8 and 3/16" and then advanced the timing an additional 4 degrees to compensate for the slower burning lean mixture - this worked out really well with no weeping from carb.

Final thing is that some Rochester B variants have a check valve built into the body for the throttle pump - they require a throttle pump piston that does not have a built in check valve. Others do not have a check valve in the body and require a throttle pump piston that has one built in. Worked on several cars with severe off idle stumble and found mismatched throttle pump pistons. Somewhere in their lifetime someone changed the pump arm to accommodate the wrong pump piston.