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#790729 10/21/2011 12:27 AM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 117
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 117
What is the common method of installing the balancer on a 235 chevy six? The crank isn't threaded so there must be a trick. Drill the end or the crank and tap? stand the motor up in shop press and push it on? Help set me straight on this so I don't screw somthing up. Thanks, Chuck

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,100
3
3B Offline
'Bolter
'Bolter
3 Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,100
Hy CayoRV, the original method was to hammer it on, however there was a tool that installed over the balancer to stabilize (hold) all the elements of the balancer together, so that the bond between the elements was not broken. I drill and tap the ends of all my crankshafts on my engine rebuilds to fascilitate balancer installation. I think there is someone on this board that loans out the tools to do this job in place, is it Hotrod Lincoln?

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,746
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,746
Heat the balancer hub with a Propane torch to expand it, and use a hardwood block and a BFH to tap it on. Don't get it hot enough to damage the front oil seal, but too hot to touch with your bare hands works pretty well. Work quickly, or the hub will lock down partway on and require some heavy hammering to seat it all the way.

I have a drill/tap jig available for loan to fellow stovebolters with a small security deposit, and a jackscrew type installer once the crankshaft snout is threaded. The older type balancer with the hand-crank lugs requires some machining to make a shoulder for a washer to pull against if you decide to bolt the 216 balancer on.
Jerry


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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,922
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,922
IDK if this is hot enough to affect the seal, but I've used boiling water to heat parts for easier fit. Don't try to pick this up out of the pot with bare hands, or even cloth gloves!


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