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#79039 06/21/2007 1:54 PM | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 95 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 95 | I looked at the old strings thru the search, but most of those discussions deal with old dirty engines, I believe.
I have just rebuilt my '54 235 - The engine has no filter assembly. Should I continue to use the dollar-store brand non-detergent, or should I switch over to something else for my new engine.
J.D. Jordan
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#79040 06/21/2007 2:02 PM | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 | Much, much discussion on this subject can be found with search function...enough to make you dizzy. Many varying opinions. Here is a good article on the subject. | | |
#79041 06/21/2007 2:25 PM | | Anonymous Unregistered | | Anonymous Unregistered | From what I have read in the new Vintage Truck that there has been several cam failures (in rebuilt older mtrs) because of the lack of ZDDP (zinc dialkl dithiophosphate) in the oils being made today & believe it or not they are recommending Diesel oils in the older flat tappet mtrs. Can't tell you much more other then some of the rebuilders recommended it also & the author did some research on it. There is a 2 page write up in the magizine talking about it so you may want to try to find the magizine or maybe someone can ask Vintage truck if we can post that Tech Tip here on the bolt.... | | |
#79042 06/21/2007 2:30 PM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | dublenaught,
Use the best detergent oil you can. A 30 wt would be fine. The detergent compounds in motor oil will scour the insides of a dirty engine to a minor extent, but their main purpose in life is to encapsulate all the junk in the oil, and hold it in suspension until it can be drained when the oil is changed.
There has been lots of talk about cam/lifter wear resulting from decreased levels of a critical anti-wear compound in current motor oils. If you have installed a new cam and lifters with this rebuild, it might behoove you to read up on this subject and possibly break your new engine in properly with a additive or motor oil up to this task.
The switch from a non-detergent to a detergent in a old dirty engine was reported to plug the filter as the new detergent oil scrubbed the interior of the engine and dumped all the crap into the system, plugged the filter and choked the oil flow to death. I don't know if this actually happens, but with your new, clean engine, you're safe.
Stuart | | |
#79043 06/21/2007 7:29 PM | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | A good 30wt detergent is A-OK. But regardless of what you use I wouild start with a quart of the GM EOS (engine oil supplement) Can't go wrong there. A lot of folks are going to the Rotella as is mentioned in several posts a while back. I can confirm this as I delivered parts for a company for quite some time and you would be surprised how many shops are useing the Rotella. Most of them are using the 15-40wt. Just more info for you to decipher!! | | |
#79044 06/21/2007 11:18 PM | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Definetly use EOS! Good stuff for break in. I actually used 2 bottles of when I did mine. Also, if you plan to usse Rotella, break it in on it to. Otherwise, any goos 30 wt (I use Valvoline) will do just fine. Remeber to change the oil and filter (if you had one) after the in initial break in. After that, you should be able to run just the oil without any extra additives.
Bill Burmeister | | |
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