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| | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 51 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 51 | Any hints or things to look out for swapping out a 250 straight 6 w a 3 on the tree for a v8 327 w/ auto trans?
Found out after messing with this engine it had a couple dead cylinders, 30 pounds of compression in them and 2 bad valves and a cracked/repaired block.
My brother is giving me a 327 that has 26K miles on it with an auto trans.
I see all the posts mostly talk about 350 swaps. Should I assume there wont be much difference with the 327?
It is going in a 64 short stepper.
Last edited by AzMcCoy; 10/16/2011 9:00 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 319 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 319 | You'll have to add a crossmember/mount for the tail of the tranny, and remove the 6-cyl. "spacers" for the side motor mounts.
Have fun.
cm
If you can't fix it with a hammer and screwdriver, you need a bigger hammer.1965 Chevy C10 | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 37 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 37 | If it is a newer LS 327 and electronic controlled tranny, you are going to be adding a bunch of computer controlled components and all new wiring. Older 327 with carburetor and mechanically controlled tranny will be very similar to any other SBC install. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 51 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 51 | Thanks for the information.
It is out of a 1968 so it does not have computers. Original 2 speed automatic trans also. Don't know if I should bother with updating the tranny or not.
My 64 has a 12 bolt rear end with 3:73 gears but is not a posi trac. I assume this will work okay with that configuration. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | I'd stick with your original 3 speed, easier swap and less trouble down the road
Bill | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 487 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2005 Posts: 487 | Don't throw away the adapters on the 250 block that connect to the motor mounts. Someone will want them. Same with the p/s pump brackets. regards, Leon
Last edited by Leon; 10/18/2011 8:44 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 51 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 51 | I forgot to ask.
I would guess the original Radiator wont be enough to cool the new motor, especially if I add power steering and air conditioning to the mix.
What would be the best radiator to look for in a salvage yard? | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 487 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2005 Posts: 487 | I'd agree that a 48 year old radiator might turn out to be a weak spot in your refurbished truck. But before replacing it with another one with unknown history, I'd suggest checking to see what a new one would cost. For example, Autozone offers their CU284 for $215 with a lifetime warranty. P&A may be different in AZ, but its worth asking.
regards,
Leon | | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 319 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 319 | Original 6-cyl. radiator is smaller than V-8 unit. I bought new V-8 one (LMC) for when I swap from 250 to sbc, but haven't put it in yet. Don't know yet how mounts & shrouding will end up.
$215 is cheap!
cm
If you can't fix it with a hammer and screwdriver, you need a bigger hammer.1965 Chevy C10 | | |
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