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| | | Forums66 Topics128,154 Posts1,056,851 Members48,456 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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#78911 06/18/2007 5:14 AM | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 18 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 18 | Thanks for taking the time to read this. I have a bit of a dilemma. I have a 1950 Chevrolet 3100 that I am hot rodding. I have done a T-5 conversion, front disk conversion, power brakes, 10 bolt GM Pontiac rear end with an Eaton Locker and 2.73 gears, 12v conversion, rewired the truck, new leaf springs in the back and rebuilt the front (drivers main leaf was broken). I made my own lowering blocks and happy with the ride height in the rear, the front needs to come down about 3 inches on the passengers side and about 2 inches on the drivers (most likely weak springs). I want to avoid buying any new monoleafs or anything like that, since I will most likely convert it to an IFS sooner or later. I have talked to a lot of people about this and get mixed answers. My question is I want to lower the front a bit. What leafs to pull and if you have done this what's your opinon? Do you like it/dislike it? hows the ride? I'd also like to soften the ride in the back since with new leafs the truck is a kidney buster. Let me know what you have done and what you think. Photos would be great! [img] http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos/00022733/11785087701.jpg[/img] [img] http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos/00022733/11785087702.jpg[/img] [img] http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos/00022733/11785074581.jpg[/img] | | |
#78913 06/18/2007 5:41 PM | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 769 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 769 | I really hate to go here, but I am concerned for your safety and anyone who rides in your truck. I am not trying to be picky and I know everyone is on a different skill level. The welds I see in your pictures have so much slag inclusion, I would take, no better yet, I would have a professional welder/fabricator come to you and take a look at your work before you drive your truck. Especially in light of the fact that you consider it a hot rod. This would lead one to believe that you will be sticking your foot in it on occasion. I would not trust those welds to hold your rearend in possition.
Lonnie Welder/fabricator for 35 years | | |
#78914 06/18/2007 7:23 PM | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 975 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 975 | Sonicweb,
Check with your local "hotrod" body shop for a shop that does spring work. The body shop I know of is real good at referals to guys who do stuff off the clock. Another thought is your street rod club. They would be able to refer you to a good place as well.
The spring shop around here does mostly big truck work, but is darn good at building our old stuff as well. I brought my springs off of my 41 to such a spring builder. He knew which ones to take out and which ones needed to stay. The truck had a nice rake to it when done. He also checked over everything and replaced the bad springs.
I had the springs on my 46 reworked by the same shop 20 years later and so far, I am happy.
Too bad I don't have the truck anymore... | | |
#78915 06/19/2007 4:32 AM | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 18 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 18 | Lonnie, I appricate your concern. I will the the first to admit that my welds look like crap. (what do you expect, my first attempt at stick welding). The welds are strong. The slag you see was me making about 3 passes over the same area and obviously not chipping the slag and cleaning it before the next pass. That rear end is going to be changed out anyhow. I just took a job at a fabrication shop that makes industrial ovens, I am sure I can talk to some of the fabricators there to teach me how to weld (I even talked about that during my interview.) So again, thanks for the concern. It's tough learning on your own, but you have to start somewhere! | | |
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