The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop 1939 hood ornament install

I'm trying to put the front of my '39 JD back together. The new radiator is install, and the grill is in place, but the hood ornament appears to need a block under the rear mounting ear. Was there something there originally? Or do I have other problems?

When I cleaned, patched, welded, beat into shape, and generally rebuilt, all the parts, I did not have much original and in good shape with which to compare, but I don't think I have things that misaligned. Thanks, Gary

Don't have a 39 but on my 46 I think I had to shim the piece at top of the radiator to bring the hood and front center brace in alignment. Or also the radiator support could be to low. Lots of pieces to this puzzle.

JiMerit,

While the ornament is a bit different between the '39 and the '46, they probably go together in much the same fashion. It may be like so many other things on mounting the body; a handful of shims and go to work at it.

I know that the sheet metal over the radiator is a bit low, I don't think it is so low as make up for the needed shims. I can't raise it as that forces the sides together, and it already is hitting the over-flow hose. It is a puzzlement.

I just finished one running board, and slid it up to the cab (mounted) only to learn that the cab must go up in the rear, and down in the front. I should have started with the running boards, but didn't have that one thought through.

Thanks for the reply. I think I will have shim and test, and shim and fit, and shim and....

Thanks,

Gary

Gary....I think your '39 is pretty close to my '40 ?
I have an " arch " piece that sits over top of the radiator. The hood ornament bolts to this arch, and to the front of the radiator shell. With mine, no shims were required. I can shoot you a few pics if that would help.

Bruce,

Sorry about the delay on responding. I was in town most of the day. Yes, a few pics might help. [email protected]

I again spent some time looking and pondering, last night. I can see no way to raise the "arch," but that appears to be necessary...unless the ornament does not sit plumb with the hood line? I doubt that, though, as the hood stikes it when opening, if it isn't plumb or less.

According to the Filling Station catalog, the '39 and '40 are the same.

Thanks,

Gary

Bruce,

Also, it would be good if the pics can show how the "arch" sits with the radiator filler neck and overflow outlet. That could be forcing the "arch" down, and that could be part of the problem.

Gary

Bruce,

I hope I get this to you in time to save you the trouble. After much more pondering, and holding my tongue in just the right place, I awakened with and epiphany.

I remembered that, when I install the rad, the upper mount holes seem farther apart than the lower. I removed the headlight pods, ran an all-thread thru the holes, and started applying pressure. The arch started to raise in the middle. I then had to shorten the overflow outlet tube so as to clear the hole, and continued the pressure until I had the mount holes tightly against the rad bolts. I tightened all the rad bolts, let up on the pressure/all-thread, and the arch remaing "up."

It appears to be very close to the proper position, but may need only a slight shim.

Now, all I have to do if figure how to make the overflow outlet workable. It's partially blocked by the flange on the arch. I may have to solder in a bent tube, and take it from there.

None the less, I do very much appreciate your offer. I am sure that others have encountered this problem, as it seems to be a somewhat weak point in the engineering.

Thanks again,

Gary

Hi Gary.....glad you solved your problem. On mine, I " widened " the radiator neck hole at the overflow with my Dremel, for clearance. Stii a little tight but works OK.

Bruce,

I just reamed out a brass "L", ground off the edges, and slipped it over the remaining piece of the overflow tube, and secured it with JB weld. I didn't dare solder it because I might knock the neck loose. I'm not that good at soldering. I think the JB weld will work as there is not a lot of pressure, and less than half the heat that JB is suppose to handle.

Time will tell.

I think, originally, there was no overflow from the neck. The rad guy told me that the bump on top of the tank was used for that in the olden days, and no overflow tank.

Thanks again,

Gary