The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop No oil filter

I have a fine old 50 chevy 1/2 ton that I'm restoring. It has a 59 engine that is a 261 or a 235 c.i. but I'm not sure which I have. The thing that surprised me about this truck was the lack of an oil filter on this engine. I changed the oil and got this truck moving last year after it had a long nap since 1995. Is there a kit or something available that I can bolt on that will allow me to ad an oil filter to my engine? If anyone can tell me how to identify which engine I have. I should could stand to learn more about identifying my engine .

read here for identification

you probably have the 235, I think all 261 had the filter except some that were made in Canada

The oil filter was an option for most years on the 6. Since yours lacks a filter, if it is a '59, it is most likely a 235. The '50 261 has a slightly different oiling system, with a filter being standard on them. They require the filter, or at least bypass plumbing in order to oil properly.
Adding a filter is not hard to do. There's a few ways you can do it. One would be to find an original canister filter, usually AC or Fram, with the appropriate hoses to connect it. The feed line comes from the same port as the pressure gauge, the return is about at the center of the block on the driver's side, and should have a 1/8 NPT plug in it. Another way would be to use a Trans-Dapt or similar brand filter relocater that uses a modern spin on style filter. This would a bit cheaper, as the filters tend to run less. However, if you go that route, you will need to add a restrictor in the return line to prevent pressure loss. You could also use a Frantz filter, which uses TP for the filter media. Those hook up the same as the original bypass filter.
To identify your engine, there's a few numbers on the block that will Id it. One is the block casting number, found toward the front of the engine on the passenger side, near the motor mount. This will get at least the range, as the same casting numbers could be used for multiple years. Another is the casting date, which is located on the passenger side near the starter. The casting date is usually about 2-3 weeks from the asembly date. The last number is the engine serail number. This is the one that's stamped on the flat pad next to the distributor. That number will tell hich plant the engine came from, and what vehicle model it was installed in originally. It may also tell what transmission and clutch option it was equiped with.

hardshell,

Here are locations of various codes. Post the head and block casting codes, and head and block date codes, and the engine serial number. People will then be able to tell you more about your engine.

woody vondracek has photoes on here of a oil filter and bracket you can add on . you can make the bracket and get the filter from napa, has # and everything you need. just look up his name in the user list hope this will help

don't think you'll find that name, try Czechman

Bill

Hey hardshell! DON"T install a filter!! That's the advice i got when I contacted Patrick's antique engines in Costa Mesa,Az. I have a 261 block, with a 235 head, which i didn't know, until i received their magazine complete with a cross-reference guide. The reason(s) not to: "It ran this long without one,so why add one?! If you decide to install an oil filter, you NEED to drill two holes in your OIL passages! one for supply, one for return! Metak shavings in your oil passages mat cause severe damage to your engine! not only do you need to drill two holes in your perfectly good block,you also need to tap threads into the holes to screw in the fittings for the filter. I was told that as long as you keep the oil in the air-breather clean, your engine-oil will stay clean. We have an s.c.o. system. (self-cleaning oil) but to be on the safe side, I still change my oil every 1500 miles, just to be safe. Happy Bolting Sincerely: Bill Hickey [email protected]

No holes need to be drilled to add a factory style bypass filter to the 216/235/early 261. The holes are already there from the factory. The feed line is taken from the same port that feed the pressure gauge, using a T fitting. The return is located just forward of the engine centerline above the oil pan rail, it should have a 1/8NPT plug in it. That hole drains pack to the pan.
The modification that requires drilling the block is for adding a modern full flow style filtration system, and really should only be attempted on an engine that is already apart for overhaul. I considered it, but the machinist I took my engine to said the bypass would be more than adequate.
As noted in my earlier post, the late 261, '59-'62, from the 2 ton truck does require a filter in order to oil [roperly, as it has a full flow filtration oiling system. All the oil has to go through the filter before it goes through the engine. If a filter is not present, a "jumper line" has to be installed to allow for oil flow.
I do find it odd that Patrick's would say "not to add a filter", considering that they sell a Beehive style bypass filter for the Chevy 6. That seems counterproductive to sales.