The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Adding an oil filter...

I need an oil filter setup on my '54 3800. Evidently, it was never equipped with one.
Thx!

Kurt@KKF

Get one from a salvage with u-bolts & get a hose kit from one of the specialty suppliers. They are easy to put on.

Or if you're not concerned about keeping the vintage look you can make your own.

Lots of info available on the bypass filter in the search section. I discovered that plugging the 1/8 NPT supply and return ports, gave me an additional 5-7 psi of oil pressure. Being that the bypass filter only filters a limited amount of oil at one time, I felt that the additional oil pressure to the bearings was a fair trade-off.

Once you establish your operating oil pressure without the bypass filter, you can decide whether you want to sacrifice the additional oil pressure.

Secondly, the filter can/filter need to be filled with oil after changing out the old filter, to avoid pressure bleeding off from the system while the filter and can fill, and come up to pressure. This period of time, without full oil pressure to the bearings would have a negative effect on bearing life. Changing my oil a little more frequently seems easier than changing out oil-starved bearings. Maybe some others will add their thoughts. Hope this helps.

Dave

Thx! While I want to keep the truck original (it's amazingly complete, but 12V) the oil pressure is an issue, since I'm going to rebuild the engine. This will also allow me to D&T for lines/mounts. I own a machine shop. I just don't know where they tapped the gallery. I found 3 D&T's hole on the left/front of the block, but I don't know if this is for the canister mount. I looked for the Tips and Tricks section, but didn't find it.

The supply line for the filter is the same one used for the oil pressure guage, they just simply T-d off from it. The return line goes to a threaded hole just about in line with cylinder #3, about an inch above the oil pan rail. This just simply dumps back into the pan.
Personally, I'd prefer to run with a filter. I feel that even a little filtering is better than none at all.

Thx! Now I'm getting somewhere!

KurtsKustom,

What is/are D&T's?

Here is an installation instruction sheet for a 1953 car - trucks are similar.

Here\'s a photo of a 235 block\'s oil fiter holes.

Tim

'D&T' is Drill & Tap.
Thx! In that pic of the locations, what are the 3 tapped holes ahead of the 'from filter outlet? Are these holes for mounting the filter canister?
It looks like, from the diagram, that the filter canister mounts with U-bolts to the intake manifold?

The canister hangs from the intake manifold. I don't have a 235 but from their location I'd guess they have something to do with mounting the generator. I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong.

I do beleive that the pic is of a late ('58-'62) block, and those are for the side mounts used after '58, right?

Hey Kurt,

Click on the link below of my webshots, then on "Tips and Tricks". On about page 5 as I tried several mount locations and hose configurations. If you're planning on running headers you'll need to consider the heat problem....I finally found a way around that situation. It would work for both the stock bypass filter or also the full-flow. It's not the only way...just the way that worked best for me.

Also...saw your "central Florida" location, was curious if you were in or near my neck of the woods. Lake Wales.

Dave

Thx!
I'm in Bushnell/Sumter Co. My website:
KKF

Tim
Thanks for the links to the Pics.
High Kudoes as Always,
Regards,

Ah.... a 'familiar' face.....

I thought it was you.....

- I do not know what the holes are for - I do not think they have been tapped. As stated above, they seem to be located where the passenger motor mounts would be located.

- I will double check the block casting number tomorrow to confirm the date of the engine. It might not be original.

- If mounted closer to the front of the intake manifold, I do not think that the canister would get in the way of the generator. In earlier years, it might have gotten in the way of the horn (ask Denny).

picture of a \'55-\'62 filter canister mounted on a \'54 235

Tim

I can't go ANYWHERE anymore w/o being recognized! Check the pic in my profile. No, there's not a gun in the picture...

That's a clean engine compartment Tim. Much cleaner than mine.

:confused:

The picture of the block that I posted above, showing the holes for oil lines, is a 1954 235 truck block. The three holes in a triangle-pattern, are tapped. This block casting must have been shared with the passenger car (non-hydraulic lifter 235). Powerglide equipped blocks (hydraulic lifters) would most likely have had a different casting (they do have a different casting number).

I have two other 1954 235s and they also have three holes in a triangular pattern on both sides of the block.

Tim

The cheapest place to find a canster type oil filter canster is at a tractor dealer/tractor repair. Ford N tractors (9N 2N & 8N) use the canster and it won't break the budget buying one.

Thx! Those pics are invaluable. I picked up a used unit. Now, on to lines and the cartridge itself.
[img]http://www.kurtskustomfirearms.citymax.com/i/Misc/AR15firing.gif[/img]

Just took the tour through the Suburban Tim, very nice.
I see what you meant about that Blue being a little darker than my 1950 Mariner Blue. Looks to have a little more red in it also.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

A dearest friend of mine from HS had a '54 Burban. Untouched and running. We were all hippies (EARLY '70's) back then and this truck went to Colorado from IL and all points in between. Every state got a sticker on the left rear quarter glass. We were young and so tight. Memories...

OK, got my oil filter canister. Looks identical to your setup. After a trip through the parts washer, it went to the blast cabinet and on to paint. In your pic, I assume those are the correct colors (this body was orange and had a black(?) top). As nice as your engine bay is, I assume those colors are correct. This body measures @4 1/2" inside. Does this canister use a 4" diameter filter, then?
Thx!

If you've got the one with the orange body and black top, it's most likely a Fram instead of a Delco. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2676581140092261295syxJgb

Kurt.

My oil filter is not a 1954 filter. Since it is a '55-'62 AC filter, I painted it the AC colors for those years. Your orange and black combination is, as stated by Bill, correct for a Fram.

The Fram filter has a different shaped bottom than the AC filter. I think there are "pinches" in the conical bottom of the Fram filter.

Tim

THAT's it. Any difference between the two, do they accept the same filter element? Now I'm torn. I already have the top painted (orange), and picked up a can of Duplicolor GM blue for the body at Discount (Advance) Auto Parts. I mentioned the element, and he ran it through the computer, and ordered an element that will be in tomorrow morning. I'm carrying my stripped canister body to them to check to see if it's the right one.
Thx!

Yes, my canister bottom has the indents in the pressing. I'm re-doing it to Fram colors. The filter element he showed me on the computer looks to be a Fram (orange). I'll check in the morning. Still, should it be 4" in diameter?
Thx!

The tee that feeds the filter should have a small passage so you don't "dump" your oil pressure into the oil pan. I don't know the size ,maybe about a 32'nd. Best bet would be an original tee.

Thx!
It's coming along:
[img]http://www.kurtskustomfirearms.citymax.com/i/Misc/MVC-014S.JPG[/img]