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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 91
1
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 91
hello, got the engine outta my truck, but, i can't seem to get the bell housing off. it's a 1941 235. i've got a line on a 1954 235 to take it's place. it is my understanding that my bell housing will bolt right up to it. i've removed 4 bolts. 2 on the top of the bell housing on the outside, and 2 on the bottom inside. what's holding it on? i hope it doesn't involve turning the flywheel, it's been stuck for 40 years or so. hence, the engine swap. thanx in adavance. marc


http://s1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff393/fletch41/

1941 Chevy 1.5 Ton, (soon to be flatbed), dubbed the "USS Coral Sea" which I served on while in the military. wink ~m

wink

~fletch
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
Remove flywheel, then remove the last bolts behind it that you may not have access to otherwise.


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
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Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
If the engine is stuck it is difficult to remove the clutch to get to the flywheel. There was a thread on this a while back. Guys had various ways of doing it. My method is if the old engine is no good anyhow. Remove the oil pan & wack the crankshaft in front of the rear main.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
Joined: Nov 2009
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M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 86
1fletch also has part of this question going in another thread
where I suggested he start gently, by seeing if the crankshaft would free up easily by removing the rocker-arm assembly and taking any stuck valves out of the equation...


1953 Chevy 3100
Father and Son project
In the Stovebolt Gallery
46 GMC 303 1.5T
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 91
1
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
1 Offline
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 91
this is killing me. before i read these responses i was just gonna break out the sledge. the engine is toast. i gotta new one. the head is removed as well as the oil pan. i am going to disassemble it as far as i can and look for something to hit with the sledge that isn't an integral part of the bell housing/flywheel/clutch assembly. i've got the engine on it's side for easier access. i will check back here periodically in case someone takes pity and points me in the right direction. thanx for your input so far. ~m wink


http://s1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff393/fletch41/

1941 Chevy 1.5 Ton, (soon to be flatbed), dubbed the "USS Coral Sea" which I served on while in the military. wink ~m

wink

~fletch
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 863
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 863
take the oil pan off, unbolt the conrods and she should spin,
if not undo the main bearing caps and try again...


My GMC has a bad case of ship fitters disease!
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1956 Chevy 1500 Hydraulic Dump Truck
1952 Chevy 1700 3-Ton Firetruck

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Joined: May 2011
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1
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
1 Offline
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 91
thanx shark, (and you other guys), i did just that and was able to take the crank out in it's entirety. then i was able to remove the bell housing, clutch, and flywheel. i completely disassemble it to see the inside of the engine. a confession, this is my 1st engine removal, and disassembly. learned a lot. thanx, maybe i DIDN'T bite off more than i can chew. we'll see.


http://s1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff393/fletch41/

1941 Chevy 1.5 Ton, (soon to be flatbed), dubbed the "USS Coral Sea" which I served on while in the military. wink ~m

wink

~fletch

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