My Grandfather has an old green 1955 Chevy 6400 peanut truck in the back pasture of his 100 acre retired watermelon and peanut farm for almost 20 years. He has several more cars and trucks that have not ran in years. None of the family cars from other generations in the '20's, '30's, etc. Only my dads and Granddads generation cars and trucks('50's-'80's). My Grandad has owned this truck since the '70's. Recently, I ,13 years old,needed a tool box for my Chevy pickup bed trailer that I bought at a flea market a few months earlier. The truck I pointed to was my Granddads early '80's white chevy half ton with a tool box on it that was bolted to the bed rail, unknown to me. We opened the toolbox and saw the bolts going into the bedrail and my grandfather said, "Why don't you take the whole truck with you?". At first, I thought he was joking. I said " What?". He said "Just take the whole truck with you. You can have it. I remember finding the parts for it a few years ago and in todays market it would cost about 3 or 400 dollars to get it running. I said "Papa, I appreciate the offer, but I don't need a truck right now.", even though I wanted the 1955 Chevy 6400 about 60 feet away, but I figured I better talk to my dad about it first. My Granddad said "No, don't worry about it. You can have it, or any other car out here". I grinned and said "Papa, thank you for the offer, but I just don't need it right now". He said "Well, if you need a truck, just come ask me". I said "Okay, thank you for the offer, but I just don't need one right now". I came home and talked to my dad and he said thank you for not taking that truck. I said "What do you mean?". He said " Tye, that white truck was one of the worst running trucks my dad owned out of the many he had.". Now, almost a year later, I want to take the 6400 and put in a 12 valve cummins diesel and use it for my now more successful lawn care buisness. My dad in the '80's' took off the original believed to be 16-20 foot flatbed and put it about 200 feet from the trucks current location and cut off about 5-10 feet off the back of the frame and left about ten feet of frame from the back of the cab to the rear axle when he was about 13, leaving about a foot of frame behind the rear axle. Now in 2011, I want to put back on the original flatbed and replace the wood in it and use it as my lawn care hauling rig and mobile billboard at the same time. I have not found the original 6-10 feet of frame that was cut off, but luckily, my granddad never throws away or hauls off ANYTHING. I need some help on putting in the A/C, connecting the instrument cluster to the cummins, redoing the interior, finding lower rear cab corners, replacement glass, fabricating the frame to fit the cummins engine and tranny, where to get shipped body parts on the internet or where to get parts for this truck in Texas, and anything else. Anything is helpful.
If this truck still has 120 inches (or 10' as you claim) of C/A that is correct for a 16' body length. a couple of feet of AF (frame behind the rear springs) then it is an excellent candidate for a body up to 16' as that allows for U bolting the rear.
I don't know much about the Cummins 5.9 in a TF sereis and it may be quite a chore. IF it would fit then engine mounts become the first concern after the real first concern of will it accept the trucks transmission. Then there is the radiator issue of course. And the steering as that Cummins is sure to be lot heavier than whatever is in the 55'now. It might be a lot esier to get a front frame clip off a Dodge so you could install it and the benefit of steering and cooling are a bonus. Also get the tranny and don't forget the fuel tank, lines, filters, intercooling set up, etc. Do you see where I'm going? I don't want to throw cold water on your enthusiasm but it all sounds so doable when your 13 but becomes a whole lot more difficult when it comes time to do it. It's going to take a great deal of lawn care business to get this done and most all your buddies.
Having said that I wish you all the success in the world and I like nearly everyone here stand ready to help however we can. At least on the TF chassis end of things.
Send for Jim Carter's CD parts disc. Also Brothers Truck Parts, and a great many more will show up on a Google search. All the suppliers do a creditable job. Larger items like cab parts are pretty much from wrecking yards, private owners scrapping one out, etc. Be sure to stay current with our Parts Wanted and Parts for Sale Forums. Likely all you instruments will need to be updated to take care of the Cummins. And lastly, sorry to say, I've only scratched the surface of the problems you'll face. But if your determined then you can make it happen.
Last question...OK? Why do you want or need a diesel engine to haul a couple of lawn mowers and assorted yard tools? Maybe Grandpa's original Chevy engine would (WILL) work as well for you. Think about it.
Thank you for your concern and the cooling system, lines, power steering, hydraulic brakes, transmission, etc. was already what I intended, I just didnt put in enough detail in the original post. I need something that can pull large weight. The frame and axles on that 6400 are more than capable of handling that conversion based on my comparisons and research. My problem with the original motor in it that is just over 200 cubic inches, and riding empty goes 50mph at best if they run well. About 15 years ago my dad needed a truck and he used the 6400 for about a day because it would top out about 30 mph downhill because the original was a sick chicken. After that he decided it was time for a new truck. For the price I could overhaul that engine based on my research, I would be just a couple of hundred bucks short of buying that wrecked dodge that I can use as a donor vehicle. I am no stranger to learning these things take TIME & MONEY. I want something that lets me say I converted that truck, rebuilt myself, and put it back on the road. Now THAT is worth mentioning. One of the best prts of this conversion is drivetrain parts are easier to find for a 1990's dodge cummins than parts for a 1955 Chevy 6400. After looking at the engine compartment in my brother 1995 dodge dually and measuring, doing TIRELESS research on this Chevy to Cummins conversion, I will have just enough room for that cummins.
To better answer your question, I plan on keeping the original Frame and Axles, Cab, Fenders, Front bumper, Hood, Grille, Interior, and Rims. I plan on getting rid of the Chevy 12 volt system, and replacing it with the Dodge 12 volt system and wiring harness so it will already be wired for A/C, etc. in the engine end. The intercooling system, hyraulic brakes, A/C system, motor, tranny, etc. is all going on the 6400. I am planning on taking those "Widowmaker" rims on it to the welding shop and have them weld the seams on those rims to make them safer. Please give me any input, tips, or ideas on this project. And to answer your last question, I want a diesel engine for it's power and durability. I also want to expand my buisness in the future to things like small tractors to do pasture mowing and maybe farming after college. Always think what you want to do in the future, think long-term. I am one of those people, I want something, I go for it. I bought my first trailer when I was 12 years old at a flea market! I still have it! I will try to post some pics of the truck and the trailer and the reason I bought that trailer was so I could have a trailer when I move out to go to college so I don't have to keep borrowing my dads trailer.
Well I have to say. This is a very good story. But for only being 14 you can spell like a champ. Put me to shame. Good to see you taking on a long care job. I did that when I was younger as well. I will try to be of help to you all I can. Worked on cummins for the last 8 years. Good luck.
I think that the time you have already spent researching this project is going to save you lots of headaches as you start the hands on process. Keep up the good work. I do have a concern with welding the drop center (widowmaker)wheels. Do a bit more digging into this. Grigg wrote a tech tip about wheels and that will give you more information. Good Luck, Don
I am having some trouble on finding out what to do about the "Widomaker" rims on it, but I want to keep the original rim style. I am not going for flash when it comes to the interior and body. I do not want to repaint it, or do any bodywork. If I have to do things on the body like window repair, floor pan replacement, etc., I am willing to do things like that. If I wanted to restore it, I would be more than willing to do bodywork and paint. I want it to look like just an old farm truck, but have a powerhouse of a cummins. I am thinking for less complications and safety, I want to take the long, narrow fuel tank out of the Dodge, and mounting it on the frame rail underneath the flatbed in front of the rear axle. Can anyone give me some tips or cautions on this and how I would go about mounting it? I was thinking to either fabricate the original brackets from the dodge to be welded to the frame rail, or to build an overbuilt, homemade bracket out of square tube and weld that to the frame rail. What would you do? I don't want it in the cab because of fire and fumes hazards.
I am also wondering what digits indicate the month and date off of the VIN number on the 6400's. The first 2 digits of the vin are a 55? Does this indicate it's a '55. My dad said he couldn't remember if it was a '55 or a '56. And I'm 13, not 14. We do have family owned cow pastures and dirt roads near our home for me driving on. I amhaving trouble getting these pics uploaded, sorry in advance if the link doesn't work My Landscape Truck
Before long we will be accusing you of being 18 or 20 years old. It isn't very often that a young man your age thinks as you do. You are off to a great start.
1953 Chevrolet 3600 Fried Green T'mater (Vern) In the Stovebolt Gallery Caution: Political Statement Man who runs in front of car gets tired, man who runs behind car gets exhausted.
This may seem out of nowhere, but I love hunting. I thought of replacing the exterior door handles with a deer antler. How would I go about doing this? I had the idea of one that curves up alot from the deers head so it sticks almost straight up like an H. I see these antlers all over at local flea markets. Can I drill a hole for the lock and put it in the hole? Anything is helpful.
I think I want to name my truck the 'shine hauler! (Thats short for moonshine hauler) Does anyone else name their trucks?
P.S. I posted pics 2 replies above this I would imagine the fluids in the rear axle pumpkin has probably turned to expired, pre-chewed bubble gum. Is there any thing different I should replace it with different than your modern, everyday truck?
If it aint broke, you ain't tryin' hard enough!
And thanks for your enthusiasm FriedGreen Tmater!
Last edited by 1955_Chevy_6400; 08/29/20113:30 AM.
Here's a whole bunch of Diesel conversion info and a great resource www.4btswaps.com
As for your overall plan... It sounds reasonable but you make it sound simple, in reality it will be hugely complicated and take countless hours and a fair amount of money. I strongly suggest you get it running stopping and driving as is and use it for a year or three as is prior to starting a diesel conversion. You'll learn a whole lot in the meantime that will be invaluable when doing a conversion.
I started playing with AD Chevy trucks in high school, was given a 52 1 ton which I drove everyday for a couple years, even rebuilt a 235 for it somewhere in there. Then a few years out of high school I figured out and did the disc brake axle swap and added power steering and brakes. That was a whole lot of work and a big learning experience, something I could have only dreamed of doing back in high school, seriously doubt I could have pulled it off (safely) back then. Now for the last few years I've been doing the diesel conversion on the 2 ton (using the the axles from the 1 ton on it), it's a whole lot of work. I've done a lot right the first time and I've redone a lot too, I'm always learning something new.
While you have some good ideas you also have a lot to learn before you can make them all happen. It can be extremely discouraging to bite off more than you can chew, and that's why I suggest you work with a essentially stock truck for a while as you learn about it and learn more about what you want.
Your answers are impressive and obviously you've started doing your homework. That is the place to start and not by jumping into the mechanics of the truck. In fact I have trouble believing your age as stated. One thing I did not see in your reply was in regard to the transmission but you do mention "driveline parts" being more plentiful. So would I be correct in thinking you are including the tranny and the driveline itself? I certainly hope so as that near 60 y/o driveline would never stand up to the torque of a modern diesel engine such as a 5.9 Cummins. Also, if true, is the included transmission an automatic or standard?
As for the fuel tank get away from the notion that you can weld the brackets to the frame. This is a definate no-no. Frames can be altered and welding is a part of that for experienced folks but we never weld things to a frame accept at the very rear like a hinge. Always bolt tanks, tool boxes, accessories, etc using accepted methods and fasteners. When the time comes I will be happy to help you with that.
I am beginning to get the impression that you have already considered these things but I only know what you tell us. So I trust you will tell us a lot more as time goes on.
We are in the process of building a roll back hauler using 37 Chevy 2 ton sheet metal on a UD (Nissan heavy truck division) chassis. The fenders had to be widened 2" on each side to cover the tires and the front of the running boards flared out to blend in. The UD was selected because they have a reputation for a smooth ride and the owner is going to use it for hauling his 1937 Chevy Business coupe long distances to shows. The paint and glass work are finished and it's going to the upholstery shop next so it's in it's final stages. Almost EVERYTHING had to be custom made or fabricated and final cost is going to be near 35k. Fuel, electrical, cooling, drive line, brakes, sheet metal, frame, steering,.....everything, underwent extensive modification. Just a primer on what to expect.
Thank you all for the links and advice in this sonversion. It will be a while before I do this conversion, but I figure it will be more than worth it study up on this conversion. Thank you so much on the info about the frame welding and fuel tank, 53moneypit. I am still deciding what I want to do for a bed. If I am going to go with a flatbed, I will use the original to the truck. The original beds are so hard to come by. I am also considering putting on a tool body. I am also considering doing a half tool bed, half flatbed body. I have seen these on a few service trucks, I like the look, and it looks very functional. I did not find the keys to the truck which were left in the ignition when my dad borrowed it and then parked it in the back pasture a few years ago. I have found kits that replace the locks in the doors and ignition for about $50.
To answer your question 53moneypit, I hope to use a standard transmission. Mostly for durability, but also for towing capabilities.
Hint on the locks. The code is stamped on the door lock cylinder. (You must pull the handle off then remove the cylinder to see it.) You can get a key made to the code for a lot less than $50.
"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964
Thank you all for the info on this conversion. I am especially thankful for the tips about the keys and fuel tank. thank you all for being so supportive on this. I am still confused about what to do about those "Widowmaker" rims. Can anyone help?
What design rims do you have? Are they the Firestone rh5? If so find wheels that aren't . Welding them together is certainly not an answer, actually a good chance of killing yourself in the process. and more info "tire pyrolosis"
Did you check out the wheel and tire tech tip?
Grigg
Last edited by Grigg; 09/05/20112:19 PM. Reason: add video
Thank you for the tip on welding the rims and tire assembly. I meant take the tire off the rim, weld it, let it cool overnight, and then put it back on the rim. Will this be safer? I noticed on both of those videos the tire is on the rim. It looks like the welding is making the air inside the tire expand, therefore, making it explode. I also wanted to know if it is a 1st, or 2nd series. Can someone help? The VIN is W2 55S038981. I also want to know the month and day it was made. Which numbers on the VIN indicate this? Does the 2 after the W mean it's a 2nd series? Anything is helpful.
I wanted to know what I should do about that low gearing in the rear axle. I want to be able to do freeway speeds. I have seen several trucks like the 6400 converted to go much faster than 55mph. Will I have to put in a more modern rear axle with higher gearing, or can I alter the gearing in the rear axle and keep it original? The rear axle is original. It looks like it came off of a semi! The reason I like these trucks is they are so overbuilt. I am really leaning towards converting the rear axle. I don't want to swap axles. Is there a way I can keep the original rear axle, but still be able to go about 70mph? When you are running a buisness, time is money. I will lose alot of money if I cant go over 55mph.
There's only three ways you can increase the top speed, change the differential gaering, install an overdrive, or put larger diameter tires on. None are going to be inexpensive to do. Changing the differential gear may be the hardest without changing out the entire rear, even then, rears of that capacity tend to be very low geared. Best comprimise there might be to swap to the optional 2 speed, which has a 6.40:1 high gear. A trans swap will be easier, as there were several overdrive tranmsissions made for the heavier trucks, Fuller, Clark, and New Process all made them, plus you could possibly even use the NV4500 5 speed from the later GM and Dodge trucks. There's also the option of using a Ranger Overdrive from Advanced Adapters, which would bolt in place between the stock trans and bellhousing, effectively giving you 8 forward gears. A note on the wheels, don't weld them! The multi peice wheels reguire disassembly in order install tires on them. A better choice would be to seek out the 22.5 single peice wheels from the '56 and later. Now for some inspiration. This is Grant Ensrud's '56 6400, which is very simlar to your '55. Grant uses this truck in his landscaping busines, it gets worked pretty hard. The description is a little old, the 496 is in it now, and the Fuller gave way to an Allison 5 speed automatic.
Thanks for the info about the wheels and gearing in the rear axle. I am still torn about what to do for rims. I don't want flash, I want classic. I don't want this truck to look like a rat rod, even though it kind of is. I want it to look like a beat up old farm truck, but secretly have a powerhouse of a cummins. I have gotten one or two replies saying to put the front end portion of a dodge frame to put the motor on, and attatch it to the rest of the frame starting at bout the firewall. The main problem with that in my opinion, is fabricating some mounts to attatch the front fenders to. Should I try to modify the original frame, or add the front frame portion? I am also concerned that the high torque of that cummins will strip out the gears in the pumpkin of the rear axle, which could get very interesting in a hurry riding down the highway.
I want to know if I could fit the original wheels on to a modern Chevy or Dodge, 4500 or 5500, rear axle. If not, is there adapters I can buy for them, or will I have to fabricate them from scratch? I also wanted to know if the rims made in 1956 and later,(The ones that were not the "Widowmaker" rims), would bolt up to the '55's original axles. Can anyone help?I always carry lots of tools to my jobsites. I am torn about what style of bed to go with. Based on your experience, would you go with a flatbed with underbody toolboxes, a tool body, or a half tool body, half flatbed? What would you do? I am almost %100 sure I will have to dovetail the rear of the bed due to clearence issues on the riding mowers, so I will probably end up with about a thirteen foot long bed area due to the dovetail unless I want a ten foot long ramp on the back of that bed. Is there anything you think I should know about this? Anything is helpful.
Multiple piece wheels can't be welded together because you then couldn't then install the tire. If you want one piece wheels find some 22.5" ones. If you want original wheels then keep what you have, so long as they aren't the Firestone RH5, and don't modify or otherwise play around with them and your welder... Again refer to the tech tip.
As you contemplate your gear and speed options run the numbers through a gear calculator. http://www.onlineconversion.com/bigger_tires.htm Keep in mind that a B series Cummins is happy cruising along at 1,800-2,000 rpm in a truck this size. The tire outside diameter for 8.25-20 or 9R22.5 should be about 38". And an NV4500 5 speed has 0.73 OD ratio, you're unlikely to find a faster OD unless you choose a 6 speed Allison automatic (electronic and more expensive option).
The original rear axle should hold up just fine to a Cummins, the big problem is lack of suitable gear choices. For that reason you should look at newer axles that within reason allow the speeds you desire. Or settle for a slow truck, which was just fine when it was new and can still be useful.
I would not graft a dodge frame to the original, while it could be done I feel that if you're going to go that far may as well borrow the whole donor frame. But I'm not a fan of that all, I much prefer to make the mechanical upgrades to the original frame, it makes for a much simpler and better looking solution, perhaps no more or less work in the end.
Have you measured a Cummins and the old truck to see if it'll fit nicely or require firewall modifications? This whole project could get complicated fast.
I know my own diesel bigbolt project is pretty straight forward but all the details and making everything fit and workout is a whole lot of work, thinking, problem solving, money and a tremendous amounts of time.
So far the big bolt wheel tech tip has the answers to your wheel questions, please check it again and let us know if you then have any more questions.
Thank you for the help on the rear axle gearing. I am %95 sure it has a 3.55 rear axle ratio, but I dont know the transcase or transmission ratios. It wont let me search it without all three ratios. How can I determine these ratios?
To answer the other portion of your reply, I agree about the front clip/donor frame idea. I want to keep the original frame. I would rather fabricate the motor/tranny mounts, than takde a donor frame, fabricate mounts for the hood, fenders, cab, bed, etc. To answer your next question, I was talking back and forth ideas with a friend on this topic, and I was told that the front fenders and hood on the '50's Chevy 1 ton are closer to the sides of the tires, giving the engine compartment more room without modification to the frame or the mounts of the fenders, hood, or firewall. They used this to put a Chevy 454 big block out of a 1990's chevy pickup (which is only a little smaller than that cummins) onto a 1950's chevy 1 1/2 ton truck with just a little room to spare. Has anyone tried this before?. It will still be a tight fit, but that is part of modifying cars and trucks. It won't always be easy, (or cheap!).
Now it is my turn to ask a question. I read the tech tip, and from what I understand, the wheels from the '56 and later rims are interchangable with the '55. Did I read that right?
I'm 95% sure you don't have 3.55 gears in a 55 2 ton, more like 6.7 something or at best 5.14 I'll guess. To check for sure you can jack up the rear, count turns and do the math.
Transfer case ratio leave blank or 1, you don't have one. Transmission ratio is whatever it is in high gear in this case, either 1 for direct drive (original transmission) or very likely 0.73 for an Over Drive that comes behind a Cummins.
Correct, 55 model and later big bolts with the 10 lug pattern on 7.25" bolt circle should have a 5.25" center hole, this is a change from the earlier 4.75" center hole.
The axle ratio I told you was found on another forum. I think he made a typo. He said that is what comes on the '55 chevy 6400's. But he also said he was very knew to the classic truck world. You seem much more knowledgeable on this topic. Thanks for clearing that up. I should have known. Listening to the rookie can be very helpful, or very misleading. I thought that seemed off for this size of a truck.
Are you telling me that I was right about the rims being interchangable? I am unsure because at the beginning, it says correct, but at the end you say it is a change from the earlier size. Which is it? QUOTE: Correct, 55 model and later big bolts with the 10 lug pattern on 7.25" bolt circle should have a 5.25" center hole, this is a change from the earlier 4.75" center hole.
55 and later are the same just as I said, well should be, because there seems to always been an exception when you state something so exact.... It's the earlier ones that had the smaller center hole. Also you could measure yours and confirm that they have the 5.25" center hole.
I have another question. Mine looks like its missing the gas pedal. I see the clutch, the brake, and then there is this little round pedal that is only about the size of a silver dollar. Is this my starter pedal?
your controls - much good info in the shop manual, operators manual, and GM 'resto-pack' found here, including gear ratios and other specs for all models
Here is a pic of the pedals. Sorry if the link does not work or the pic is too small. Is the pedal underneath that piece of carpet between the brake and the little round pedal? It did not occur to me to look until I came home and imported the pics.
too small, can't tell, but the gas pedal is attached with a pivot at the bottom and at the top presses on a rod that goes thru a smallish hole in the floor - it's not unusual to find these old trucks with the actual pedal gone and just the rod left - look from the engine side and see where the linkage leads - go on a treasure hunt, pull out the carpet
I went to grandfathers home today and looked at the door handles to see what holds on them on so I could get the number off the lock cylinder for some new keys. But that is when I realised something. There aren't any locks on the doors! Does your '48 have locks on the doors?
Dear everyone,
I wanted to know if the other link, called Enlarged Truck pics, on my previous comment worked. It worked on my end, and showed my photobucket album with the pics of the 6400. Did it work? Please let me know by either reply or pm message. I try to check this sight daily.
I just went through your pix, and I noticed a couple of things. 1, your rear differential is a 2 speed, nt the single. That means you can have one of 2 different ratio gearsets. It's either a 5.83/7.95 or a 6.40/8.72. If it's the 5.83/7.95, that would be very good, as the high range would get you a bit more top end, especially with that Cummins you plant to use and an overdrive trans. Plus, you get the benefit of a low gear for pulling if necessary. The other thing I noticed is that the original engine is still in place. Whatever you do, don't scrap it! That engine is the very desireable 261. Even if you don't use it, you could sell it for some extra cash.
Selling it to help pay for the conversion was already part of the plan. I did not know the size of the motor. Thank you for clearing that up for me. Is it a stovebolt? What is the most desirable size of motor that came in these? What can I get for it? The last time it ran was about 10 years ago. Based on my research, these things topped out at about 55mph. About ten years ago, when my dad was driving it, it topped out at 35mph on level roads because the original is a sick chicken. I know that almost anything can be overhauled, so what can I get for that engine? I buy, collect, and resell things all the time(pellet guns, 1930's and'40's signs, knives, bayonets, tools, archery, truck stuff, oil cans, and am considering getting into junk vehicle resale, etc.), but that motor has me stumped. What can I get for it if I sell the original 3 or 4 speed on the floor transmission with it? The tranny never slipped or grinded when the truck ran. Also, how can I determine which speed it is in the rear axle?
I am also taking requests for old cars or trucks that need to be restored or parted out. Buying whole vehicles ONLY. Have a 1995 Dodge 1 ton dually and a 20ft. trailer. Delivery available in Texas. Can trailer any car, truck, bus, etc. under 9,500 pounds and under 20ft. long from front bumper to center of rear axle. Any requests or leads?
