The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Noisy valvetrain?

'59 Apache 3600 235 6cyl 4spd
Newly rebuilt engine, bored .030, new cam, lifters, bearings, etc.
I'm new to these engines, more familiar w/ SBC V8's.
Are they supposed to sound like a sewing machine? I orig set valves like a SBC V8 then found it was too tight (low power)
I then looked up valve settings in the service manual and reset them accordingly: with engine hot, intake at .008 and exhaust at .018.
It seems too noisy to me!I went back thru them all about 3 times, still noisy!

Did the face of the rockers get refaced during the rebuild?
If not wear from the valve causes a recess that the feeler gauge bridges giving a false reading.

No, not refaced. By the way, forgot to mention it's a stock grind cam from Patrick's. Hyd lifters.Just seems way too noisy for me. Maybe I could tighten 'em up a little to make up for false reading from rocker faces?

Are you sure they are hydraulic lifters?
You don't set hydraulics with a feeler gauge.
You turn them down till there is no play in the push-rod then one turn more (with the valve closed of course).

Yes I'm sure they are hydraulic, that's why I set them the way I did at first, when I read in the book about the settings I never gave it a thought they were talking about solid lifters. Maybe I had them just a wee bit too tight the first time. I'll reset them again tomorrow w/ zero lash and 1 more turn and see how that works.

If they're too tight, wait a minute before starting it up to let the valve bleed down a bit.
Hydraulics should be very quiet, but you may still have some light noise from the rocker sliding back and forth, etc.

OK, they're too loose now, very noisy..
Thanks a bunch for your help!
Had a blast driving it around a lttle today! Just got exhaust put on yesterday. I love the sound of the Fenton headers and glass packs! Really turns heads!!!

I like to adjust the 235 hydraulics while at idle. I start with the clearance just gone, then I slowly take it down to my setting. I then take it down 1/2 turn past the setting and back up to make sure they plungers aren't sticking. You can hear the engine miss as you turn them down and they automatically adjust to the new level. It will have a miss for a second or so.

The run/don't run discussion on hydraulic lifters has been going on since at least 1949 when Buick installed hydraulic lifters in their straight 8 engines. With a 50+ year running discussion, we're not likely to come up with a definitive answer in an internet chat room. The Lincoln Zephyr V-12's had hydraulics as early as the late 1930's, but there was no question about them- - - -the valve stem length determined the lifter preload and it was only changed during a valve job by grinding the length of the stem to alter the preload. That's still the best way to handle lifter assembly height on engines without adjusting screws or adjustable rocker ball pivots. Some engines have different-length pushrods available.

I'm a member of the "don't run" camp. I've explained the "companion cylinder" valve adjustment procedure several times, so an archive search should bring that one up if anyone's interested. It works on all engines, with solid or hydraulic lifters.
Jerry

I went thru this same thing years ago. I have a 51,235 with hydralic lifters (Auto Car). I had a valve job done and threw the head back on. I trusted the shop and shouldn't have. The thing was nosier than all get out. After weeks of adjusting, hot,cold, changing the lifters and everything else I finally spotted it. The shop had placed the valve spring keepers in the wrong (lower) slot. I put the keepers in the proper (upper) slots and it ran quiet as it should.

All truck 235 engines came with mechanical (solid) lifters. That is why the Truck Shop Manuals only show the mechanical lifter settings/procedure.

I have never seen original rocker "faces" that did not need to be ground/honed smooth.

I am also a member of Jerry's "don't run camp" when adjusting valve lash.