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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 96
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 96
Hi Folks,
When I got my truck it was a basket case and although re painted it wasn't put back together correctly. The passenger door opens and closes as it should but the driver's side is a disaster. You have to slam it to get it to close and then the trailing edge sticks out at least a 1/2". The front edge is about 1/8 to 1/4" behind the fender edge. Have adjusted the striker plate as best I can but there must be more adjustment somewhere. When I start off in first gear the door chatters in the striker plate - but only just a bit. It is somewhat annoying. The hinges and pins are tight - no play that I can see or feel.
Thanks for any tips or tricks!

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,995
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,995
I'm sure others will chime in here, but I'm thinking you can loosen the hinge bolts and move the door in or out. If I'm not mistaken, there should be adjustment on both ends of the hinge--both where it bolts to the door and also where it bolts to the body.


Rich
1947 Loadmaster
1947 Chev. Loadmaster
1959 Chev. Viking 40

Life is short--eat dessert first!
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
S
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
S Offline
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
as Rich says, the hinges can be adjusted in the door and in the post [pic in manual] ... the leading edge of the door should be very slightly inboard to avoid interference with the fender when opening, the trailing edge should be fairly flush but sometimes the seal will hold it out a bit, and there should be some rubber bumpers on the back post that keep the door tight against the striker - there's more info in the manual

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 698
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 698
sepp,
Remove the door seals before you adjust the door. It will make it a whole lot easier. And as Rich and Bill said the adjustment is at the hinges. It goes easier with 2 people.


My Fleet:
1941
1953
1959
1965
1966
1953 Willy's Pickup

John

Vegetarian- old Indian word for bad hunter
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 176
E
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
E Offline
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 176
Hi sepp,

Here is a little light reading for you on panel adjustment. http://www.autobodystore.com/ms1.shtml
It takes a lot of patience, and in my case required giving it a rest and coming back to it a few times.

There is available from the various suppliers a small shim that snaps onto the door latch. It helps with worn out latches and allows us to keep things original a little longer. Here is a picture from the American Classic site. http://americanclassic.com/images/DLRS60.JPG

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 946
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 946
I had to Hog out the holes in my after market hinges to get the door to line up correctly. It was a pain. The lower driver side door has a shim to push out the bottom to line up with the after market front fender. I must have had those doors on and off 50 times. I managed to hang the doors all by myself since none of my yuppie friends want to get their hands dirty. I highly suggest you get a friend to help. I didn't know about the front edge being slightly inboard. Had I known that, I probably wouldn't have had to hog out the hinges so much! Thanks for letting me know now Bill! LOL!

Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 785
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 785
Here's a door installation fixture that may help out those guys working alone....


http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1690000&postcount=63


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