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| | | Forums66 Topics128,184 Posts1,057,270 Members48,467 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 96 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 96 | Hi Folks, When I got my truck it was a basket case and although re painted it wasn't put back together correctly. The passenger door opens and closes as it should but the driver's side is a disaster. You have to slam it to get it to close and then the trailing edge sticks out at least a 1/2". The front edge is about 1/8 to 1/4" behind the fender edge. Have adjusted the striker plate as best I can but there must be more adjustment somewhere. When I start off in first gear the door chatters in the striker plate - but only just a bit. It is somewhat annoying. The hinges and pins are tight - no play that I can see or feel. Thanks for any tips or tricks!
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 2,995 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 2,995 | I'm sure others will chime in here, but I'm thinking you can loosen the hinge bolts and move the door in or out. If I'm not mistaken, there should be adjustment on both ends of the hinge--both where it bolts to the door and also where it bolts to the body. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | as Rich says, the hinges can be adjusted in the door and in the post [ pic in manual] ... the leading edge of the door should be very slightly inboard to avoid interference with the fender when opening, the trailing edge should be fairly flush but sometimes the seal will hold it out a bit, and there should be some rubber bumpers on the back post that keep the door tight against the striker - there's more info in the manual Bill | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 | sepp, Remove the door seals before you adjust the door. It will make it a whole lot easier. And as Rich and Bill said the adjustment is at the hinges. It goes easier with 2 people.
My Fleet: 19411953195919651966 1953 Willy's Pickup John Vegetarian- old Indian word for bad hunter
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 176 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 176 | Hi sepp, Here is a little light reading for you on panel adjustment. http://www.autobodystore.com/ms1.shtmlIt takes a lot of patience, and in my case required giving it a rest and coming back to it a few times. There is available from the various suppliers a small shim that snaps onto the door latch. It helps with worn out latches and allows us to keep things original a little longer. Here is a picture from the American Classic site. http://americanclassic.com/images/DLRS60.JPG | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 946 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 946 | I had to Hog out the holes in my after market hinges to get the door to line up correctly. It was a pain. The lower driver side door has a shim to push out the bottom to line up with the after market front fender. I must have had those doors on and off 50 times. I managed to hang the doors all by myself since none of my yuppie friends want to get their hands dirty. I highly suggest you get a friend to help. I didn't know about the front edge being slightly inboard. Had I known that, I probably wouldn't have had to hog out the hinges so much! Thanks for letting me know now Bill! LOL! | | |
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