The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Tank upgrade.

I need a new tank for the truck and i was thinking of moving it under the bed of the truck (because I have heard this is the best option). With that being said, I am a completely ignorant and don't know which tank to buy and how to install it. The guys at the local parts store dont know how to help either. Everyone talks like this is something simple to do.
Thanks in advance.
Reece

Hi, Somenewguy.

My handle is NewAtThis, and I certainly don't know as much as most of these guys, but I'm been fascinated with the 60-66 Chevy trucks for the past year or so, even though I don't own one (yet!).

I also plan to put a tank under the bed of my future truck.

There is an "easy" kit available at LMC Truck and probably other places. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/full.aspx?Page=37 It's $200 and doesn't look difficult. Essentially, it's a 21-gallon tank, which I believe is the same as what came on some old Chevy Blazers. You could get one at a junk yard, but you'd have to get the accessories to strap it to the frame.

Many people have done this modification, and they've put other tanks in there, too. But this one seems to be the most popular. The only problem I know with this particular tank is that it's so huge that it hangs down and is visible from behind the truck. I've looked for smaller tanks that should fit but won't hang down as much. These are not as tall, but I have no idea if they'd be appropriate for this application:

1941-48 Chevy
1949-52 Chevy
1953-54 Chevy
1971 Dodge Charger
1955-56 Chevy Bel-Air

Another issue is where to put the filler neck. They say you can't route a hose back up to the stock filler neck because it's such a long run and also it's part of the cab, which is not directly attached to the bed, so the cab and the bed flex independently from each other, which would be bad for your gas line. The easiest and maybe most popular thing to do is to stick the filler neck right in the bed and run it straight down to the tank. I'm sure there are kits for that as well. Personally, I can't stand the thought of drilling a hole in my bed wood and then taking the chance of dribbling gas on it when I fill up. There's a neat thing I've seen advertised that installs under one of the bed planks and then raises the plank up when you push a button, and that reveals the filler neck beneath the wood. Other people have experimented with placing the filler neck on the side of the truck coming out through the fender or maybe putting a gas door on the fender like modern vehicles have. I've seen posts where people who own 70's C10s have tried putting the filler neck behind a tail light that swings out. It looks neat, but I don't know how that would apply to a 60's truck.

Search these forums to find out lots about this. I know I've started a couple threads about it. I find it interesting. Also know that some folks might get mad if you mention it. They would say the cab is the safest place for the tank because it's totally enclosed, and the rear of the truck is the most dangerous because being tail-ended is a very common wreck. Seems like bolters are about 50/50 on this topic. And each group believes their arguments totally. I'm under the belief that a tank far from me and my family is the safest tank of all, meaning get it out of the cab! Also, they say a tank in the cab can get smell pretty gassy after filling up.

According to the government, the only safe place for a gas tank to be is between the axles within the frame. Whether it's in the cab or at the rear, neither of these fits that criteria.

So with that in mind, one idea I love is to place an S10 gas tank within the frame right beside the drive shaft. On the Chevy trucks with trailing arm suspensions, there's no room for that, but the 1963-66 GMC pickups had leaf springs in the back with no trailing arms. Seems to me that this might open up that area beside the drive shaft that the S10 tank. Exhaust pipes might get in the way, though. But I've never heard of anyone doing anything like that, so I can't recommend it. Just sounds like a safe option. By the way, the saddle tanks that were on the GMC trucks that were thought to be a hazard in a wreck were not in the position I just described. They were on the side, but not within the frame. They were outside the frame and only protected from a collision by the body of the vehicle.

For more info, here's a 6-page thread I started in Feb. 2010: https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=641251&page=1

Hope all this is useful!

Steve.

Like you I am new with rebuilding my truck.

I have looked at several different tank installations and if you are a little mechanical it looks like a mid 80's suburban fuel tank will do the trick with some minor modifications.

Here is a pretty good how to: http://www.persh.org/Pickup/TankBelow.htm

good luck with the build.

Hey I was wanting to try this on my truck and I ran across Performanceonline that does a kit. Looks hot too http://www.performanceonline.com/images/D/d-16813-572.jpg
http://www.performanceonline.com/blog/2009/01/63-72-chevygmc-truck-aluminum-fuel-tank/
Hope it helps!

Here is a write up I did on the installation of a '49-'52 Chevy passenger car gas tank in my 1965 C10:
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/259172/post/new/#NEW

Happy Trails,

John

Hey Steve. I commend you for the exhaustive descriptions, explainations and theories about fuel tanks in the '60-'66 Chevy/GMC trucks. As with most of the aftermarket offerings for these trucks, your comment, "There is an "easy" kit available at LMC Truck and probably other places. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/full.aspx?Page=37 It's $200 and doesn't look difficult. Essentially, it's a 21-gallon tank, which I believe is the same as what came on some old Chevy Blazers.", is a pretty broad-brush assertion of the product, especially, since you haven't installed one in a '60-'66 Chevy/GMC truck. In most cases, the instructions, reagardless of how comprehensive, leave out some of the details, thus requiring some ingenuity and creativity, during the installation process. The only way to exercise these demons, is to do the install.

All of the '60-'66 Chevy 1/2 ton trucks and Suburbans and 3/4 trucks had coils/trailing arms in the rear, so a between the rails/forward of the rear axle is not possible.

We concentrate, exclusively, on the '60-'66 Chevy/GMC trucks, Panels & Carryalls/Suburbans, and I spend a tremendous amount of time and care helping individuals navigate the pit-falls of modifying, upgrading, repairing and enhancing these vehicles. I am only able to do so, with the years of experience wrenching on them. I would never attempt to squelch the ambition of a fellow truck lover, but in most cases, there is more to the process, than the 30-minute segment on "Trucks", with respect to tools, knowledge, expertise, money, time, experience and space.

I have found the best proving-ground for this excersise, it to purchase a truck and undertake the various modifications, then share your personal experience.

Hi, 4-5-6.

First of all, I certainly didn't mean to overstep my bounds in posting what I've learned about gas tank mods. My intent was to help Somenewguy the best I could. I didn't mean to steal the thunder from the experts here whom I've learned so much from. I only wanted to share what I've learned from you guys in the past and what I've dug up elsewhere. You are correct that I don't own a truck, and I'm sure you're correct that one day when I do own a truck, I'll know much more. However, on this topic, I do know quite a bit, again, much thanks to you, Hot Rod John, Woog and others here. If my role is not to share knowledge or ideas, but only to ask questions, and if Somenewguy doesn't find anything useful in my post, then I'll be happy to remove it.

Second, the reason I said the kit was "easy" in quotes was that the manufacturer would say it was easy, but in real life, things are often more difficult.

Also, I know very well that this forum focuses on 60-66 Chevy/GMC trucks. That's why I spend so much time here! I believe all my comments are applicable to these trucks, including the idea about leaf springs in the rear. Woog's buyer's guide says:

1963 - 1966 GMC - Leaf Springs rear, coil springs in front, 1/2, 3/4 & 1 ton

Though I was wrong in my belief that the early 60's Chevy trucks had leaf springs in the rear. I'm sorry for that misinformation, Somenewguy. Your truck is a 61, so I'm sure you knew I was wrong the moment I mentioned that. I'll edit my post to remove that.

Otherwise, I'll stand by my post and the information I shared. When I get a truck and learn more through experience, I can come back again and modify my post accordingly.

Hey, I don't come on this board to argue. You guys have always been the nicest and most informative people I know. Nobody in the world knows these trucks like you. Thank you as always for the knowledge you share with us new guys. I can't imagine owning a truck without this forum available. I'm sure Somenewguy feels the same.

Steve.

In no way was my post intended to be argumentative, more so, to explain, that the manufacturers of these parts, in most cases, have never installed their kit on one of these trucks and anyone that has actually installed a so-called kit, regardless of what it is, knows, first-hand, that the description, does not match the actual installation process.

Your contributions are useful and welcome, by all, but going through the hands-on exercise, is price-less in knowing the nuances and the "why didn't they explain that in the directions" part of the process.

4-5-6, you're a good man. Thank you for that clarification.

Hey guys I really appreciate all of your help on this, I really struggle with the look of the Blazer tank. But seeing as how i can probibly get one at the wrecking yard, i will probibly go with that for now and upgrade to this later:
Looks hot too http://www.performanceonline.com/images/D/d-16813-572.jpg
http://www.performanceonline.com/blog/2009/01/63-72-chevygmc-truck-aluminum-fuel-tank/
That is beautiful!!!
In response to 456 and newatthis, I think you both underestimate my knowledge of the truck and work on it. I appreciate any suggestions and The link that Newatthis gave me last night was perfect for me to start my research today!
Once again, you guys are awesome
REece

Sorry, but gas tanks hanging down below a vehicle are a pet peave of mine.

Might I suggest that before you install that low hangin blazer tank that you check out the following link for some photos and some additional ideas.... Just want to be sure you know what you will be ending up with before you lay down the hard earned greenbacks for the parts.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=453832&highlight=gas+tank+thread

The performance online tank looks great. Now you gave me something else to think about? Happy Sunday Brett

Hot Rod John, thank you for that both of your links. Awesome!

I agree with you that the low-hanging tanks aren't the best. It's well-worth it to look at some smaller tanks that won't show from the rear.

Are you happy with your installation? It looks great. Does the gas flow easily when your filling up? Any drawbacks to your solution?

Thanks.
Steve.

Glad you liked the links. Pictures and how to articles sure do help a fella in making up his mind.

As for my install, the tank came with a 1/2" vent line. I ran it up into the rear stake pocket. The tank fills just fine. No drawbacks, it's all good.

Something to consider http://www.autosafetyexpert.com/defect_fueltank.php

I'm not sure I'd call moving the tank an "upgrade". I personally drive a '66 and a '65 both with the tanks behind the seat - where they were meant to be. I don't smell gas (not even on hot days here in sunny FL) and there is no sloshing noise. And I don't have to worry about moving things around in my beds when I have to fill up with gas. Just my 2 cents worth.

John

My thoughts as well. When I bought my truck it had the tank mounted under the bed. I removed it and put a new one back behind the seat. Fortunately for me, the P/O left the filler neck in the cab unmolested.

That's a great article. I agree with what it says about the rear-mounted tanks, and at the same time, it also says in-cab tanks are dangerous. What's a person to do?

I'm still convinced that the idea I mentioned previously might be the best chance of having a "safe" gas tank. That is, on a truck with a leaf rear suspension, either from the factory, or modified as such, mount a Chevy S10 tank within the frame right beside the drive shaft. I don't know if it would fit there, but if it would, I believe that would be ideal. I hope to try it one day.

There is no "safe" place for a fuel tank. Just safer. Between the drive shaft and frame would likely be the "safest" but there isn't much room there especially on a SWB. I've seen many pre 1973 trucks smashed up over the years and don't recall ever seeing one that caught fire. I'm certain that it has happened and when it has, it wouldn't be good for the occupants, but I think the chances are better for a fire in a rear mounted tank (behind the axle) in a rear-ender. In the videos I've seen, the tanks don't "explode". They rupture, and then, as the crumpled vehicle is push forward some metal scraped the road causing sparks igniting the leaking fuel. For a seat tank to rupture, it would most likely be if the truck got T-boned and, in such a case, the truck won't get pushed as far and it would be less likely (I think) that metal would be scraping the road. Of course, there are other sources for ignition in a wreck. I don't know what the 'right' answer is but I do feel that, should I get in a wreck, I'm more likely to be rear ended than T-boned.

Licensed, I agree with most of what you said. Popular Mechanics said a couple months ago that exploding gas tanks are a myth. In a typical wreck, the tank is punctured, and because of the pressure within the tank, gas spews out and then gets ignited. Sounds more like a flame thrower than a bomb, not that either is a good thing.

I agree that the in-cab tank is less likely to rupture, but a ruptured in-cab tank is much more dangerous than a ruptured rear-mounted tank. Both sound awful. I was imagining such a wreck today, and thoughts of my family... Awful. Nobody wants to die from a simple rear-end collision. Whiplash is bad enough without a huge fire. Anyhow, it's all scary stuff.

I would love it if someone with a GMC could measure the open area between the drive shaft and the frame. That's where they mounted them on the S10 trucks. Maybe it's close to the same size. Wouldn't it be great to come up with an answer that's better than the cab and better than the rear? Maybe when I buy a truck it'll be the GMC with leaf suspension, and I'll make that my mission.

if you got hit hard enough to rupture an in-cab tank, you wouldn't be alive to worry about a possible fire, a ruptured tank and ensuing [possible] fire is way down the list of things that could kill or maim you and your passengers in any old truck .... I've been driving old trucks for decades and have seen the remains of many fatality related ones, most had windshields shattered from the inside, or the steering column was 3 feet further back than the factory put it, or any number of other cab "modifications" like drastically lowered roofs, but none were burned

if you really want a tank under the center of the truck, find a panel or burb tank and mount it there as the factory did

anything is possible, but your thought, money, and effort are better spent on more probable risks, and safe driving is way up there, as well as careful constant maintenance


Bill

That's a good point. I guess the panel and Suburban tanks weren't located behind the seat. Where were they? By the drive shaft or behind the axle?

I agree about safety. My main modifications would be power steering, power disc brakes, shoulder harness seatbelts, and probably the gas tank relocation. I also thought about some sort of headrests. PopularMechanics.com had a feature about the least safe interior features. One of them was a bench seat with glass directly behind it. Apparently during that time, many people in pickup truck wrecks slammed their head through the back glass due to a lack of headrests. This is a lovely conversation, isn't it?

As for thing about a T-bone killing me such that I wouldn't have to worry about a cab fire. That would seem like a poor solution for my wife or daughter sitting in the passenger seat.

panel bodies have the tank between the right frame rail and the driveshaft, about where exploding u-joints would fly

Bill

Thank you, squeeze!

Exploding u-joints aside, that sounds perfect. I'm sure the panel's must have had rear leaf springs, not trailing arms, so if a GMC frame is the same as the panels and suburbans, that would be a great place for the tank.

Anybody know if a panel truck frame is the same as that used on the short-bed or long-bed 1/2-ton trucks? I guess it wouldn't be surprising if the panel frame was more similar to the 3/4-ton long-bed trucks.

the most common panels are 1/2T short, suspension is the same as the pickup, but there are long as well and no short 3/4T's - don't be guessing, get the assembly manual for the years and get facts, then start looking for what you want, panel tanks aren't common

Bill

Squeeze, that's all good news! That tells me it should be totally possible to put a tank within the frame, forward of the rear axle in a 64-66 GMC short-bed 1/2-ton truck.

When I have a truck, or better yet, before I buy (so I know what I'm getting into), I can check the documentation and get the specifics. If I can't buy a reproduction panel tank, I'm sure I could have one fabricated, or like I had been thinking, maybe an S10 tank would fit. Either way, something would work, and it would be much safer than the rear-mounted tanks and I believe much safer than the in-cab tanks.

Thank you so much for your advice. I'm really excited to try it. Whenever I do reach that point, I'll take photos and post them on this forum.

Hee is my install of the blazer tank it came out pretty good, and I did it for a completely different reason, I needed more room in the cab for my fat "mule" here is how we did it. Kieth

1. mounted the flange under the frame , welded 4 bolts to the top of the bottom frame flange to make it easier to take in and out.
http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-GMC/13311086_gRF57#1382478344_sr9cCz6-A-LB

After installing the bolts in the frame flange it looks like this:

http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-GMC/13311086_gRF57#1385997329_svjGkRJ

We had to modify the bed crossmember to allow room for the bolts in th bed wood
http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-GMC/13311086_gRF57#1379005088_DrSmCmf
Just click next to see the progression of the tank install.

this shows how the straps were installed:
http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-GMC/13311086_gRF57#1087060605_ZDKec

rear of tank:
http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-GMC/13311086_gRF57#1087060612_HdAHa

Final changes:
http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-GMC/13311086_gRF57#1403270096_WfTFcBh

How much tank hangs down from the frame:
http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-GMC/13311086_gRF57#1455701681_jb2dtZs-A-LB

view from the top after the install:
http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-GMC/13311086_gRF57#1449966113_DZW9XDm

Beautiful GMC truck, Keith. good job.

Keith:

What year Blazer did that tank come out of?

I measured between my frame rails and it is like only 27 5/8ths wide and 24 front to back. If the tank would slip inside the rails it could be bigger.