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#77519 05/12/2007 5:55 PM | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 191 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2004 Posts: 191 | Posted this also in the HIPO Forum. Forgive me, but I am anxious! Okay. Finally got up enough nerve to start the SBC in my 56 just now. Fresh cam. Followed all the prelube requirements and stuff. Used CD2 as suggested here by cletis. Fired it up after minimal cranking. Lots of smoke as everything burns off the engine and headers. Kept rpms up, but as the temp guage got to 190, I shut it down. Prior to this was running 2500 rpm for five minutes or so. Keep popping breakers on my fan circuit. Has a 30 amp mini-breaker, which I think I'm going to remove and just go with the fusible link that is already there. There are no shorts, but I believe the initial startup is frying the mini-fuse. Anyway, I have several fuel leaks which I'm fixing and my oil pressure guage is leaking where the line connects to the engine block by the distributer. Before I fix the things I've mentioned here, thought I'd let everything cool down. I know I'm supposed to keep the rpms above 2000 for 20 minutes. Have I messed up my engine, you think? Or should I quit worrying, fix the leaks, and resume the cam breakin? | | |
#77520 05/12/2007 6:02 PM | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,636 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,636 | Fix the leaks and resume the procedure. If it leaks enough to get too hot then you you've ruined an engine. Fix the leaks and get after it again. | | |
#77521 05/12/2007 6:09 PM | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | I don't see anything that you've said that would lead me to think the engine is fried. The oil leak at the pressure sender is a good sign - it shows you've got oil up to the top of the engine. The 190 is prolly about where the thermostat wants to open up, if it wants to go much above that it might indicate a problem. The fan breakers are a seperate issue, I read a thread here awhile back that said it's better to run 2 breakers in parallel, that might cure the "trip" problem. You might want to pull your valve covers just to verify the top end is getting oiled.
Good luck!! | | |
#77522 05/12/2007 6:17 PM | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 191 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2004 Posts: 191 | Fixed most of the leaks. Fires up good. I think my radiator cap is bad, and the coolant in the overflow is really brown. Probably should have taken the radiator in and had it checked. When it all cools down ok, I'll pull the cap and check the water level, and maybe replace the cap. Oil pressure is holding about 50 psi at 2200 rpm's. Still need another 10 minutes or so for cam break in. Fan is fixed. Removed the breaker and will stay with the fusible link. Any other ideas or recommendations? | | |
#77523 05/12/2007 6:19 PM | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 3 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: May 2007 Posts: 3 | I've built hundreds of engines. You have not messed up your engine. Just fix the minor problems and start it again. | | |
#77524 05/12/2007 7:37 PM | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | In the future you may want to have a way to rewire your fan if the link does burn up. So you can get home with out cooking your engine. | | |
#77525 05/12/2007 7:48 PM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I think there was a previous post about two relays in parallel, not two breakers. You should check the current draw of the fan. If it is excessive then maybe your fan motor has a problem. There are 30 amp little breakers that you can get. Also if you think it is an initial draw problem, look for a special fuse for motor loads. They will takle more on startup. | | |
#77526 05/12/2007 10:35 PM | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 32 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 32 | Clint, Whenever you break in an engine it gets really hot. I have seen headers glow red, thats why ceramic headers warranties are voided if you use them to break in an engine. You will ruin the coating. So keep at it in intervals, just dont let it get too hot. | | |
#77527 05/13/2007 3:03 PM | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | | | |
#77528 05/15/2007 2:31 AM | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 13 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 13 | Well make sure coolant level is topped two inches below rad cap base ,get a squirrel cage fan put that in front of vehicle, blowing at rad,then start in with cam break-in, dont sound like to me you have hurt motor ,deal with breakers on fan seperatly. 424x4 | | |
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