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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 191
C
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
C Offline
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 191
Posted this also in the HIPO Forum. Forgive me, but I am anxious! Okay. Finally got up enough nerve to start the SBC in my 56 just now. Fresh cam. Followed all the prelube requirements and stuff. Used CD2 as suggested here by cletis. Fired it up after minimal cranking. Lots of smoke as everything burns off the engine and headers. Kept rpms up, but as the temp guage got to 190, I shut it down. Prior to this was running 2500 rpm for five minutes or so. Keep popping breakers on my fan circuit. Has a 30 amp mini-breaker, which I think I'm going to remove and just go with the fusible link that is already there. There are no shorts, but I believe the initial startup is frying the mini-fuse. Anyway, I have several fuel leaks which I'm fixing and my oil pressure guage is leaking where the line connects to the engine block by the distributer. Before I fix the things I've mentioned here, thought I'd let everything cool down. I know I'm supposed to keep the rpms above 2000 for 20 minutes. Have I messed up my engine, you think? Or should I quit worrying, fix the leaks, and resume the cam breakin?

Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,636
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,636
Fix the leaks and resume the procedure. If it leaks enough to get too hot then you you've ruined an engine. Fix the leaks and get after it again.

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,464
W
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
W Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,464
I don't see anything that you've said that would lead me to think the engine is fried. The oil leak at the pressure sender is a good sign - it shows you've got oil up to the top of the engine. The 190 is prolly about where the thermostat wants to open up, if it wants to go much above that it might indicate a problem. The fan breakers are a seperate issue, I read a thread here awhile back that said it's better to run 2 breakers in parallel, that might cure the "trip" problem. You might want to pull your valve covers just to verify the top end is getting oiled.

Good luck!!

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 191
C
Wrench Fetcher
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C Offline
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 191
Fixed most of the leaks. Fires up good. I think my radiator cap is bad, and the coolant in the overflow is really brown. Probably should have taken the radiator in and had it checked. When it all cools down ok, I'll pull the cap and check the water level, and maybe replace the cap. Oil pressure is holding about 50 psi at 2200 rpm's. Still need another 10 minutes or so for cam break in. Fan is fixed. Removed the breaker and will stay with the fusible link. Any other ideas or recommendations?

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3
R
Junior Member
Junior Member
R Offline
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3
I've built hundreds of engines. You have not messed up your engine. Just fix the minor problems and start it again.

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
In the future you may want to have a way to rewire your fan if the link does burn up. So you can get home with out cooking your engine.


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
I think there was a previous post about two relays in parallel, not two breakers. You should check the current draw of the fan. If it is excessive then maybe your fan motor has a problem. There are 30 amp little breakers that you can get. Also if you think it is an initial draw problem, look for a special fuse for motor loads. They will takle more on startup.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 32
F
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
F Offline
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 32
Clint,
Whenever you break in an engine it gets really hot. I have seen headers glow red, thats why ceramic headers warranties are voided if you use them to break in an engine. You will ruin the coating. So keep at it in intervals, just dont let it get too hot.

Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,756
G
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
G Offline
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,756
190 is not too hot.

Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 13
4
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
4 Offline
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 13
Well make sure coolant level is topped two inches below rad cap base ,get a squirrel cage fan put that in front of vehicle, blowing at rad,then start in with cam break-in, dont sound like to me you have hurt motor ,deal with breakers on fan seperatly.
424x4


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