The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop IFS bolt on kits vs. weld on

Are there any negatives to either? I have a 52 chevy 3100. Thanx

search this forum ..there is a thread showing the install of chassis engineerings bolt in MII......if i had to do it over I'd consider it....to answer your question I guess it boils down to your welding and fabricating skills...I used CEs bolt in rear suspension....was very simple to install......dave

I seen that thread. I was just lookin for some more feedback. Thank you

weld in disadvantage - you're making an irreversible change to your classic truck.

bolt-in disadvantage - bolts can loosen and must be monitored

You can also state these two aspects as advantages, depending o what your priorities are.

The weld-in may also obliterate your VIN on the frame. I don't know about AD trucks, but that's an issue with my TF, a 57.

regards,
Leon

compromises are made to bolt in a non-factory suspension. weld in requires you to be able to weld.

What compromises are these that you speak of ole wise one..

chilwil86

I have also been trying to decide which route to go and I think I'm going the bolt in then put a small tack on the bolt threads to keep them from lossening up. Have you found any good IFS kits out there? I found that Chasis Engineering or "CE" has in my opinion after doing some heavy duty research the best setup and customer support. But they are around $2000.00. and then you have to purchase the steering setup. The Helix is the best weld on in my opinion after doing some heavy duty research on weld in IFS. on all the IFs kits I have found you still have to purchase the steering setup and that runs any where from $350 and up depending what you want. I'm also wondering what opinions folks here on the forum have of the units THAT HAVE ACTUALLY INSTALLED A IFS KIT on a truck.

There is a thread on here in which a dude installs one but never finished the truck. It looked good on the truck though. I was just wondering if there is a down side to bolting(other that coming loose). I went to a local guy that was reccommended by the manufacturer of a weld on and the whole process was going to cost nearly $3000.00.

Wow $3000.00, I wish you lived closer. I have a friend who has a mobile welder. He was the one who suggested putting a tack weld on the bolt threads once you had the kit finaly assemmbled. i kind of agree with Leon going the weld on kit way because of having to alter the frame permantly. And I have also read that the weld on kits that the weld on the weld on kits tend to crack over time and driving because they are more rigid and don't flex with the frame as well. And I plan on driving my 50 truck alot cause that's how I restore them, for driving. And I also read that the factory used rivets on frame parts even though bolts are not rivits but as my friend who is the welder said. Once you get the bolts like you want them tack the threads they won't come loose. That way I can use my 110 volt mig welder to make the tacks on the bolts. Here is a link to CE site http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/. I have called them to and they are real good about aswering questions. I tried to call TCI but i could never get through. Brothers has the kits to but they are weld on. I also seen some CE bolt on hub to hub IFS kits on Epay for $2100 with some extras and free shipping which for what i have found looking at the CE online catalog isn't a bad deal. But you still have to purchase the steering parts. that is why I'm hoping someone That has actually installed a bolt on or weld on and can give some hands on insight on how there trucks drive with the IFS installed

i feel if you use new bolts,nuts and lock washers you shouldnt have issue with them coming loose...one thing i dont agree with and i'm not a engineer or anything but i've used several of chassis engineering kits....i never use the hardware they send ...i always get grade 8 stuff to put it together with.....dave

I agree, that is one other thing i have read about, using the grade 8 stuff. I read that the no name kits used cheap material. I didn't ask the guy I spoke with at CE what grade bolts they used with the kits. How did the chasis engineering kits work out for you?

what i have used is their pacer front end mounting kit,boltin tranny and moutor mount kits and also their bolt in rear suspension kit with the optional rear sway bar....simple easy to understand instructions...exellent customer service and support..only issues i had was after following their measurements i had to pull the motor forward a little and also make a spacer for the tramsmission mount to gain alittle more firewall clearance so a gm hei wouldnt be so close...the trans spacer also helped me to zero out the carb mounting surface.....dave

ps. if your considering using their stuff you can call them and they will fax you a copy of the installation instructions....dave

Thanx DD appreciate your input.My biggest struggle is trying to figure out If I'm going to install onto my chassis or sell my entire frame, motor, trans(rolling chassis). I know some purists are cringing as they're reading this, and just buy somebodys whole frame package.My drive train is in really good shape runs like a top.

fwiw,,,i worked 21 years for FMC in sanjose ca. building,assy,test driving the bradly fighting veh.all of the assiorers are bolted together with grade8hardware.the only problems we ralery had,was with conerfit hardware from korea and other foring countries.excuse the spelling,i am now 75.my 2 cents worth.

Here's a thread you might find interesting: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148978

So are ya sayin bolt ons are no good or mustang II's.

I put a camaro IFS under my 49 suburban. I bought the IFS for $200 at swap meet and then rebuilt it for $250 in parts. I had a certified welder finish welding for $100 once I had everything measured and tacked into place. Pretty cheap but requires cutting the frame. Recently I have researched the Crown Victoria IFS from Police Cruisers and it looks to be a simple boltin with 6-8 bolts. It is a heavy duty IFS and the measurement is 34" between the rails and 62.5" overall width which is close to most early trucks. I know putting anything from F#%D in a chevy may be taboo but its worth looking into. Do a crown victoria ifs swap on google. Good luck

I would be careful buying a used Crown Vic. if it had been a police cruiser, especially a highway patrol vehicle. The highway patrol pretty much wear out the right hand side suspension making fast u-turns and the urban Vic gets a lot of abuse. You will for sure need to replace all parts.

eh those things are tanks, the crown vics. plus you can totally rebuild everything that is not forged metal for about 300 bux remember they are mass produced fleet vehicles built to last. I drove one back in the day...until it caught on fire hahaha

I driven many old former squad car and can tell you this, they are pretty much junk when they are put out to pasture. My favorite was a 1966 Plymouth Fury I Police 383 Commando, complete with roll bar and push button tranny shifter. Drove it for 3 years while in college.

aftermarket suspension geometry must be adjusted so you can actually provide the ability to bolt it to an existing frame and keep a certain track width. usually there is a frame member in the way, or you have to "adjust" the design to fit. this may or may not provide proper geometry. now, if you get lucky and are pulling a donor suspension that was designed to be bolted in to a truck frame of same height, width, length, frame angles, etc. and it matches up to your frame.... the compromises have been minimized.

I'm gonna go with a complete frame ie. (Fatman set up). I'll just pull my cab off n sell the whole rolling chassis motor,trans and let somebody thats restoring a truck or something use the original stuff.

I have a Pacer IFS and i would like to change but the cost is prohibitive. the pacer has served me well for over 25 years but the availability of parts is becoming a problem. i replace the rack three times in on month, seals went out one only took 15 mins. of idling and they blew. i know the initial out lay is large but in the long run it will be more cost effective. Flaming river has a new XL rack that is all new engineering made with longer arms to accommodate the wider vehicles. XL

A word to the wise, hold on to the chassis until you are finished with the build. You WILL find things on it you don't want to buy and things you can't buy from vendors that you will need before it's all said and done.

This is my plan.

"Too Many" Thank you for the info,although i dont know how they would ever know about a change.

I cant find anything about Illinois wanting any info about a chassis change.

First I've heard of anything like that in Illinois.

Illinois Hot rod and Custom Vehicle title and registration. doesn't look too complicated to me, as long as you have your paperwork in order.

Well I allready have a valid Illinois title so im not seeing the issue.Old number would be stamped on the new frame.