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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19
F
New Guy
New Guy
F Offline
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19
Hello, I just recently purchased a 1966 swb to restore. I have purchased a 1980 c10 to rob suspension and steering parts from. I feel like I am capable of doing all of the work myself with the exeption of the paint and body work but I am not real sure of the proper order to perform each step. I am pretty much wanting to do a complete tear down/restore so could someone please give me some pointers and also let me know of any books with a step by step order. I will try to get some pics online soon. Thanks in advance for any advise.

Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 337
M
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
M Offline
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 337
If this is your first restoration, before turning a wrench I would suggest sitting down and developing a project plan first. Two critical priorities on a complete frame off restoration are focus and finances. I’ve built all my own cars/trucks over the years so I’m a champion of doing it yourself, but I’ve also seen many enthusiastic owners have their projects go down the road as a pile of parts, when the never ending flow of money and work ultimately interfered with family life, and failed to produce a completed vehicle. Try to determine if the project can be completed in months, or if it will take years, and how this fits into your life style, space available, etc.

Next issue is determining a ballpark cost for the project. The best method I’ve found for estimated project expense is to write up a list of all the work, repairs, and parts, then put a price to each entry. Try to include both the things it needs, along with the things you want. Add it all up, then double that figure, and that will be pretty close to the actual cost. It just turns out that way, there being so many small trinkets that add up to as much money as the big ticket items.

Mechanical repairs are relatively easy. Rust repair is expensive if you can’t do all of it yourself. So is replacing body panels. By the time all the replaceable panels are purchased, more money may have been spent than what it would have cost to buy a better truck. And that doesn’t include things that cannot be replaced by bolting on new parts. Having a body shop replace things like rusty windshield headers, rocker panels, cab corners, floors, etc can cost a fortune, and for good reason. It takes many hours of effort at the going shop labor rate, and this is assuming you can find a reliable body man that will commit to timely repairs. And once all the parts are purchased and repaired, the owner still must have the talent, experience and enthusiasm to get it all back together successfully.

This isn’t meant to be discouraging. I just have a lifetime of experience building cars, and in my youth I didn’t start this way. I found something I liked, bought it, tore it all apart and started spending money. Many times I was greatly disappointed half way through a project I realized I could have bought something I wanted even more for less money than what I already had invested, and I could have avoided many months of hard work. By making an informed decision now you’ll be happier in the end, and will feel you are in charge of the project instead of at its mercy.

If you do decide a frame off is the way to go, buy a digital camera and takes more pictures than you think you’ll ever need. Store these on a computer and create a back up copy. They will come in handy when you can’t remember how to put something back together, and are a sense of pride when you go to brag about the before and after comparisons. And make sure to take lots of pictures of the overall truck before anything is touched. It’s always a big regret after years of investment to find there are no “before” pictures. Buy the large economy boxes of different size Ziplock bags and bag everything you take apart. And take more pictures. Use a felt marker on each bag identifying the contents, and try to store them in some arrangement that mimics where they go on the truck. Keep the bolts and fasteners with the parts they go on if possible, even if you have to tie wrap the bag to the part. Anything too big to put in a bag, write directly on the part with a felt market what it is and where it goes. This includes things like wiper linkage, door latch mechanisms, window winders, etc. Felt marker wipes right off with lacquer thinner so don’t be shy about identifying parts. And take more pictures!

Where to start is a personal choice. Many start with the chassis, so once completed the rest of the truck can be assembled on top. Others start with the body work first, especially if it’s going to be difficult or expensive. If the sheet metal has to be transported to a shop for paint and body work, figure out how that is going to be done.

Again if this is your first restoration, I usually recommend doing smaller projects or improvements first, even if a frame off comes later. A running vehicle is always more likely to survive the restoration process that a pile of clutter clogging up the garage. If at all possible, break upgrades or projects into increments that can be accomplished in a weekend. This way the truck gets back together by Monday (or perhaps the following weekend). You have instant gratification you’ve accomplished something, and the vehicle remains self propelled. Once everything has been gone through, the frame off becomes mostly a cosmetic exercise because all the other work has been completed.

For books, the Chevy Truck Shop Manual is a must have. For a 1966 I believe you need the 1963 Shop Manual, and the 1966 Supplement. Here’s a link to one source.

http://www.classicparts.com/searchprods.asp

The direct link doesn’t work, so just type “shop manual” into the search engine and it will pop up. I’ve read where several members have been disappointed with the electronic versions as they are harder to navigate, so a hard copy may be preferred. Book stores also offer books on Chevy truck restoration, but I’ve never used one so I can’t comment on their value.

Good luck on your project. It can all be a lot of work and somewhat overwhelming, but the results and rewards in the end make it all worthwhile.


1960 GMC 1/2-Ton Pickup Truck
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 109
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 109
Markeb

I agree with all that you said.

So your suggestions to make small step progress while keeping it running makes a ton of sense.

I would like to add that almost any frame off will be north of $20k when it's back together. So before starting to pull the body off you have to decide if you are willing to spend the money, otherwise, as you said it will leave on a flat bed in pieces.

Anyone who has done it for less, jump in here. grin

Last edited by Jon_S; 08/13/2011 10:28 PM.

Jon S
Las Vegas NV
1966 GMC Suburban 305V6
Psalm 66 "Make a joyful noise"
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a205/gvdobler/0205011645b.jpg
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 800
K
k10 Offline
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
K Offline
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 800
Agreed. 20K may be conservative. A rolling restoration may be the way to go in this economy. Brakes first. No discussion there. Brakes first. Then drivetrain. Get the stock arrangement up and running before that big block goes in. Big blocks like gas, if you haven't heard. Then you can get the interior into a condition that you are comfortable with. And then you can look at bodywork and chassis cosmetics. ( assuming the chassis was safe to start with)
Mark and Jon are trying to save you headaches and frustration. I'm trying to save you money (they are too) Don't blow it all apart and not have the enjoyment and use of the vehicle. And along the way you'll learn a bunch. You'll save a bunch. And you'll make some good choices based on experience, not what you thought you wanted. When (if)the economy comes back, you can move on to another project, or kick this one up a notch.

Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 132
L
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
L Offline
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 132
Check out my photo bucket picks. I've been able to drive mine the whole way threw. It's not a complete tear down but it works for me and it still cost quite a bit. Good Luck on the path you choose.

Brett

Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19
F
New Guy
New Guy
F Offline
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19
Thanks for the replies. After reading all of your comments I am leaning towards a driver quality restoration. I have freshened up several drivers over the years but have only performed one frame off restoration and that was when I was only 15 years old so needless to say it was far from perfect. I probably should have described my truck a little bit better in my first post. It is a 1966 swb with big back glass. All of the body work was professionally done 10 years ago and has been sitting since. It was primed but never painted. It has been kept in the body shop since then. The owner of the shop was moving out state and had to sell it. The interior has been gutted and painted a non-original color so I want to redo that to the original color. All of the trim pieces were removed but I have all of that. I will probably go with new after market trim unless someone has a miracle way to polish all of the old. The wood in the bed has been removed so I will be replacing that as well. I am going to change the front end and rear end with the donor that I have so it will have 5 lugs and power discs. It has a 400 small block with turbo 350 tranny. I am hoping to replace that with a 350 throttle body motor and 700r4 tranny. In other words when this project is done I want it to look like an old truck but run like a new one. Maybe that's wishful
thinking.
Thanks again for the comments and if my more detailed description brings up any more thoughts please add them as well.

Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 800
K
k10 Offline
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
K Offline
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 800
Here's another thought for you. If you really want the new truck experience as far as engine and transmission, think about an LS motor instead of a traditional 350. The LS will need some unique motor mounts. And the wiring harness needs to be compatible with the 66, but other than that, it should be fairly straight forward. Some dismantlers are putting together used engine and transmission packages for under $2000.00. I bought a 4.8 and 4L60e combo WITH a revised harness for $1400.00. That's 300 HP, similar torque, over 20 mpg, and turn-the-key fuel injected goodness for way less than the cost of a crate 350. Used, high mileage LS motors have been torn down and there has been virtually no wear on these engines. But do some homework on your own, don't take my word for it. The harness is the whole key, and if you get good value on the harness, then the rest becomes a piece of cake. I have 4 leads on my harness, power, switched power, tach and something else-I forgot!

Last edited by k10; 08/15/2011 12:24 AM.

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