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| | | Forums66 Topics128,129 Posts1,056,695 Members48,452 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 | Im doing a clutch conversion in my 63 from mechanical clutch to hydraulic. My question is...is there a difference in the pedals for a mechanical clutch or a hydraulic clutch? I realize that a slave cylinder and master cylinder will need to be added, but can I use my mechanical clutch pedals and just make the alterations to convert it to hydraulic. The reason im doing the conversion is because im installing a 427 big block and want the clearance for long tube headers. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 337 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 337 | To the best of my knowledge I believe the clutch pedal arm and pivot shaft itself is the same from 60-66. I’m pretty sure the clutch arm in my truck is from a 63-66. I picked up the complete mechanical linkage setup to install in my 1960 when I swapped from a TH350 to a Richmond 4 speed. The only difference I’m aware of is the lever arm that clamps on the passenger side splined end of the pivot shaft. The arm for the mechanical linkage is longer and has a different shape. I changed my mind and went hydraulic instead, and installed the later clutch arm when I discovered the original 1960 version was loose on the pivot shaft. Post #2 on the attached thread shows how I did mine: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=440979&highlight=hydraulic+clutch | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 | Thanks for the help. I believe we talked a few months ago about the same thing. I printed off all pics and instructions. I have seen the hydraulic master cylinders mounted to the left and right of the brake cylinder. Is there any advantage to where to mount the master cylinder for the clutch? The brakes are getting upgraded to disc fornt/drum rear on a manual dual cylinder. CPP has a nice mount for the 60-62 w/seperate clutch and brake cylinders. I was thinking of seeing if they'd sell me the mount minus the brake cylinder. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 337 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 337 | Left or ride side really isn’t important, other than the driver side is probably more convenient. The main issue being the clutch master cylinder needs to be mounted at the same height on the firewall as the centerline of the brake master cylinder in order to keep the pedal ratio/push rod stroke correct. Every kit I’ve seen with the clutch cylinder on the driver side of the brake booster mounts the clutch cylinder much lower than the brake cylinder. The only kit I’m aware of that addresses the pedal connection issue is shown on the following link. Post #44 shows one solution to retaining the correct pedal ratio/stroke. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=362375&page=2 | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 | I like the looks of the kit that he has. Im running non-power disc up front and drum in rear. I wonder if he can fab a bracket for me to use a non-power dual master cylinder w/cluth on the driver side. Ive got his address, ill let you know how it goes | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 | Hey MARKEB, I contacted CaptainFab and he is making me the bracket that I need that will put the clutch master cylinder on the driver side of the master cylinder and the he is including the linkage that will bolt directly to the pedal. The only the thing I need to provide is the Novak kit that I will order next week. I opted for the 7/8" bores on both kits. I thank you for your help and will post pics in a couple of weeks once installed. Once I get the bracket everything will be bolt in which makes the transfer easier. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 337 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 337 | Outstanding, I'm glad it worked out for you. I was very thankful for the Novak kit, it was very easy to install and has performed flawlessly. The kit has been redesigned since I bought mine, and the new version looks simplified and even nicer. One advantage of the redesign on the Captainfab kit, is a variety of different bore master cylinders can be used. On mine, only the type I have will fit. Looking forward to seeing the finished install. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 | Me too, the new mount he has mounts the clutch cylinder to the drivers side and connects directly to the clutch pedal, seems just a lil easier to install than what you did. Simplier is always better for me at least. Clutch, brakes and then the big block....can't wait. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 426 | Got the master cylinder/clutch cylinder bracket in yesterday and the novak kit will be here in about two weeks. Once I get my disc brake kit pulled together I'll get some pics. Ill put some pics of the bracket and kit on my photo bucket acct tomorrow so that anyone else planning on doing a conversion from mechanical clutch to hydraulic in a 63-66 can see whats out there. As usual thanks for all the input & advice. | | |
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