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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,164 Posts1,056,975 Members48,458 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 42 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 42 | Hoping you guys can help.
Had my 235 block machined at a local shop, block was cast in Dec. '56 and built in Jan '57. The block has solid lifters. The engine shop ordered a hydraulic cam and lifters, thus the hydraulic lifters are about 1/2 shorter than the solid lifters. The engine shop owner said the best way to solve this issue is to see if my block has "oil galley holes" for the lifters and if so get the longer pushrods. My issue is two-fold, #1 I'm a newbie and cannot readily identify what an "oil galley hole" is, and #2 the block is at my brother's house 30+ minutes away. My stress level is high over this latest issue and I'm hoping you guys can offer some wisdom to ease my mind.
My question: is there a year when GM started putting these oil galley holes in regardless of the installation of mechanical or hydraulic lifters?
Block info: Engine casting #: 3837004 Engine casting code: L2856 (December 28th, 1956) Engine serial #: T123H (assembled Towanda, NY January 23rd, 1957) Head casting #: 3835913
Thanks.
Last edited by FJP899; 07/26/2011 1:48 PM.
Newbie 1950 Chevy 3100 | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 | From 55 to 57 GM built hydraulic and Solid cam engines. The engine shop is correct in that you need the oil galley holes. There will be holes drilled the lifter bores if it is a haydaulic block. The rule of thumb is that most Powerglide equipped cars from the era were drilled for hydraulics and trucks were mechanical lifters. There is always exceptions to the rule though. The only way is to check for the holes. The early hydraulic motors didn't hold up well anyhow, if you had a 58-62 block, I would say go for it. My advise is to make the engine shop eat the hydraulic valve train and get you the correct mechanical cam and lifters. You're better safe than sorry. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | 1958 was the first year all blocks were drilled for hydraulics. If you have the engine code that is stamped next to the distributor, it would tell you if it is a hydraulic lifter engine. If it had the tall lifters from the factory, which are only available in solids, the block will not be drilled.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 42 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 42 | Engine code states its a model 31-32-36-3800 Thriftmaster 235. Newbie 1950 Chevy 3100 | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | If it is a 1956/57 Thriftmaster truck engine, it was not set up for hydraulic lifters.
No 235 truck engines came with hydraulic lifters; however, as stated above, 1958 and later truck 235 engines were set up to be able to work with hydraulic lifters.
All 235 automobile engines from 1956 onwards came with hydraulic lifters.
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 506 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 506 | The distributor drive gear should be of the same material as the camshaft.
Distributor drive gear identification.
A. Steel gear has plain shank. B. Cast iron gear has groove on shank.
-Tom
1950 Chevy 3100 w/ 1956 235
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