Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 22 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 22 | I've asked this question before, but I'm really still having a hard time getting at the stuff in the dashboard to strip it down. I've tried to contort myself as some of the guys suggested to get up under the steering wheel, but still can't get these suckers out! What is holding them in? Let me also remind you that I'm a girl and the dirty parts of this project do gross me out! I don't like putting my hands up in places I can't see! Especially when you consider the amount of BONES and dead mice that fell out of my bench seat when I pulled that last week! | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 82 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2005 Posts: 82 | Ok, after you get the crap out, the guages come out easy. First disconect the speedo cable from the back of the guage - it screws on. Then both clusters are held on with nuts on studs - I think they are 7/32 - a nut driver works well. The nuts should be at 10, 2 ,4 & 8 position on a clock face. If you use a flashlight & a flat mirror, you can light up the area & look at what your dealing with, but remember, it will be backwards. Good luck & have fun.
1949 chev 3100 3 window. 350hp/327/m21 4 spd, 12 bolt rear, power brakes, 3" dropped axle from Sid's. Disc brakes next.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | here are a few pics that may help you ...pic1... ...pic 2... 4 nuts holding each gauge to the dash Good Luck | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy JTKimothy and guys and gals, it has been awhile but if I'm remembering correctly each of the two gauge pods are held in place by four or three 3/8" head size nuts and clamps over studs, the pods go in from the back side of the dash, and you will be an expert contortionist by the time you finish working on the dashboard | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I don't even try to get under the dash for this work. I work from right to left. First remove the radio grill then work on the speedometer. There is the cable at the back center, two bulb sockets to pop out and then four nuts that hold it to the back of the dash. Once the seedometer is out of the way, work on the gauge cluster. The wiring is barely long enough to get to each destination. It is mad that way to keep it tight with little movement or bending. I find that it helps to dismount the headlight switch and let it dangle.
The ammeter is wired in, the oil pressure gauge has a hex nut that will release the fitting, the gas gasuge is wired in and the heat gauge is permanently attached to a tube. The other end of the tube with the sensor has to be pulled theough the firewall into the cab. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 164 | Just to clarify the above, sit in the middle of the bench seat, the radio grill in the middle of the dash has 2 nuts on the end of the 2 pieces of the trim you see on the top and bottom of the radio grill. On the bottom just loosten the nuts 2 turns, on the top piece of trim take the nuts off. Once the nuts are off the top remove the trim, then slide the grill upward because the bottom of the radio grill has slots in it and slid on and off the trim nuts and screws (studs). The trim piece can stay in the dash as you work if you like or easily remove it so it doesn't get scratched. Now you have a huge hole in the center of the dash and as Truckernix says work from the right to the left.
Label each wire you take off and leave hanging so you know where it goes when you put it back together, remember it might have been rewired in a previous life and the wire gauge and color might not match up with the book.
Just incase your truck is lucky enough to have a radio the above is assuming you have removed the radio first.
Hint: If you are going to use a new wiring harness or even if not those small dash lights that go into the speedo and gauge holes easily drop out and you hear them fall inside the speedo or gauge assembly, nothing is worse than *almost* getting done and having something go wrong and have to take it apart again and fish out a bulb. (Yes I learned from experience) I put some elmers glue on the bottom of the bulb and then into the socket before I installed them into the bulb holes. It is strong enough to hole the bulbs when it dries incase you happen to bump them so they don't drop inside, also it is not so strong enough so that you can't change the bulb either. The bulb can easily be changed if needed and the spot of elmers glue usually comes out with the bulb. If not just use a pick and clean it out.
Good Luck, hang in there and when it is done and you think back at what you did it is the best feeling of getting something completed. John
Last edited by 53John3100; 07/24/2011 6:09 PM.
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