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#759386 07/03/2011 3:55 AM
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 203
G
Shop Shark
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 203
Anyone know of a good source for cheap zinc blocks? Hearing that the chassis wasn't originally painted, I'm learning that the whole thing may have been the sacrificial anode, but since I painted my chassis, all my exposed bolts, rotors, master cylinder, etc., are all rusting pretty fast. I'm hear on the salty air coast..
I guess I could try my local boat shop?


Dave
GMCdp #759592 07/04/2011 3:10 AM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 9,671
D
'Bolter
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Posts: 9,671
Sounds like you must have been a sailor at one time or another Dave. Could you explain how that would work or be used on an Advanced Design truck???

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Last edited by Denny Graham; 07/04/2011 3:12 AM.

Denny G
Sandwich, IL
Denny Graham #759723 07/04/2011 7:32 PM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
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A 'California truck' getting rust? Next you'll tell me there is no Easter Bunnie.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
GMCdp #760430 07/07/2011 5:30 AM
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Sort of stock 1950 Chevrolet 3100
235 (The engine shread) (Engine assembly)- 4 speed - 12 bolt - stock front axle with power disc brakes
RingLeader #762104 07/13/2011 3:57 PM
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 203
G
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 203
Thanks, that'll work.

Denny, I just planned on bolting them onto several spots along the rail. Looking through your project I'm sure you're familiar with this, but for reference to those who aren't, galvanic corrosion . The zinc blocks are the sacrificial anode meaning they corrode away while your steel is protected. The other cathodic protection scheme I know of is impressed current which does what is says, pushing the current with a power source instead of through the natural voltage potential between dissimilar metals. That's more for industrial, stationary stuff though.


Dave

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