The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1950 3600 Driveline Leak

My truck has developed a leak at the carrier bearing area (it drips from there) I have the stock set-up with the ball on the trans end and the carrier bearing at the intermediate point. Is there a simple fix for this? I have taken it apart during the restoration to clean and paint but the carrier itself was sealed (I did not disassemble it)? It is actually dripping from the bracket in the attached picture, more annoying that a problem but was wondering if there was a fix.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/2097945860102454676FGTFFn

I can't help with your leak Brad but wanted to compliment you on the exhaust clamp. Nice!

Chuck

It can leak from there?!? Isn't it just a grease fitting there?

I used two the other one is on the back.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/2799871190102454676bYETuY

That seal is leaking Brad. Had the same trouble with mine when I first brought it home. It’s a lot of work to change it but these pictures might help. http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/driveline
As long as you're puking fluid out of that center support keep an eye on the trans fluid, it will suck a bunch out thru the rear bearing and you don't want to run it low.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I don't have a 3/4 Ton but here is what I see from the manual. Fig 79 on page 4-52 shows the driveline from the ball back past the center hanger, open universal and slip joint. Your torque tube extends back from the ball and ends inside the center hanger assembly. There is a seal in there and if it leaks, it will leak out of the center hanger area.

That's what the pictures show Fred, this one in particular shows the seal which is behind the drive shaft bearing. http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/120617210
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny,

Thanks for the reply and the heads-up is the seal available at the local Flaps or did you order it from one of the vendors? Denny I went through the pictures and they will help a ton although I can't build tools like you! Can you clarify for me the proper seal number that you found?

Okey dokey Brad, sorry it took so long to come up with an answer fur ya, but here is a better picture of the correct seal.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136368093/large Blow it up by clicking on the 'original' button at the bottom of
the picture and you can clearly see the numbers on the seal. This seal can be ordered from your local bearing supply house such as:
Motion Industries
1414 S. GLADIOLA ST. SUITE 300
SALT LAKE CITY, UT 84104
Phone: (801) 972-1036
The seal on the right was one that was damaged when inserting the drive shaft the first time I replaced the original one.
That's very easy to do with this enclosed front drive shaft. I replaced it again a short while ago and it doesn't leak now.

In this picture the seal on the left is the seal that the vendors are selling, it’s to thin. The seal on the right is the OEM seal.
The 470394 Timken/National Seal is an exact replacement of the proper dimensions: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/120617165

To service this ¾-ton front enclosed drive shaft does require that some tools need to be fabricated. It isn’t an easy repair for sure.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Thanks Denny I will have the seal ready for when winter hits and the truck is parked that way I can take my time on it. In light of the tools do you think a good driveline shop could do the install?

I don't see why a completent shop couldn't install the seal and make sure and have them check the bearing while they had it apart. But I would order the 470394 seal, might want to keep an extra just in case they did screw it up. As I said, that's easy to do when you insert the splined shaft back into the housing.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL