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Doing a frame off on a '50 3100. I'm ready to install the new wiring harness. I'm installing a Kwik Wire harness and I'm a rookie so the questions below may sound pretty basic. I’ve read a number of previous posts but had a few more questions.

I've got the fuse block mounted to the firewall. The harness is divided up into groups: Motor Group, Headlight Groups (2) Tail Group and Interior Group. I've got the Interior group pulled to the dash/instruments, no problem. The Motor Group, Headlight Groups (2) and Tail Group are pulled thru the firewall. I’ve wrapped the Tail Group in loom but am having a difficult time finding a good path to get the harness down to the left side frame rail. It’s pretty crowded below the firewall with brake & clutch linkage, etc. How have others routed this wire group to the rear of the truck and does anyone have pics? Next, what methods have others used to route the 2 Headlight Groups and the Motor Group? I want a neat & clean look so suggestions & pics would be great. Another question I have is what is the best way to splice wires together? Solder and shrink wrap or is there a better method? Finally, what is the best method for crimp connections? Special crimper tool? Thanks to all for educating the rookie!

You're right, it's pretty tight in there. On my '53 cab there's a clip on the firewall that's 1/2 way between the dimmer switch and the clutch pedal, and the harness clips in there then goes down to the top of the frame. I drilled a hole in the cab flange just above the frame rail and put a zip-tie there to keep it from moving around. Then it continues for a little ways on top of the fram then moves to the inside and is held by the factory clips the rest of the way back.

Are you using the factory-type headlight terminal blocks? If so they will mount on the inner fender panel up close to the radiator. The loom comes from the firewall, up the driver's side to the driver's side block, then up and over in front of the radiator to the other side. If you want a custom look and have enough length you could hide a lot of the wiring you would see on a restored truck.

As far as splicing, IMHO you can't beat a true Western Union splice, soldered, and covered with heat shrink. When done correctly the splice is about the same diameter as the original wires, will have excellent conductivity and be stronger than the original wire. There's info on the net on how to do them. Otherwise you can use butt-connectors and a GOOD splice tool that is capable of doing insulated and non-insulated crimps. There should be info on the net on the right and wrong way to do crimps as well.

Thanks for the tips. This truck formerly had wires routed all over the place and I couldn't tell what went where. I took to looking at truck engine compartments on ebay but didn't see any consistency on routing. Saw some great wire jobs but usually can't see the whole route.

Yes I'm using the factory-type headlight terminal blocks. Trying to look pretty original so I'll strongly take your advice.

If you can find an assembly manual for your truck I believe it will show the original harness routing along with a ton of other useful info.

I bought a wire stripper at Home Depot awhile back, it kinda looks like a pair of water pump pliers from a distance, but has different size shears for different wire guages - you just insert the wire into the jaws and squeeze the handles, makes stripping a breeze!

Good luck with your project.