The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Mounting the Generator '52 216

Hi everyone! Would somebody please take a look at my generator and tell me if it is mounted "correctly"? It looks OK to me, but there was a lockwasher leftover, and it's been years since I removed it.

Also, I wonder what the three threaded holes in the block at the rear of the generator are for?

Also, is the "lid" on the top of the generator for oiling? I just blew the dust off and bolted it on. I thought I would test it to see if it works before replacing brushes and what not.

Brace
Bracket
Front view of engine
Thermostat
Waterpump

The thermostat opened in hot water at about 160 degrees, so it works. The waterpump probably works since it turns. There is a bit of a "wobble" in it though, hopefully it doesn't leak.

Stove

Based on your pics, it looks good. Just make sure that all the pulleys line up so the belt wont come off.

The lid is for oiling. A few drops per the shop manual. Your starter also has one too....

The Brace:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136064439
And get a flat washer behind the lock washer.

The Bracket:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136064442
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136064446
Nuts on the two pivot bolts should be self locking type and just snugged up enough to take out the end play. You want to be able to pivot the generator easily to tighten the belt. and don’t over tighten the belt or you will shorten the life of the water pump and generator bearings.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Thank-you gentlemen!

I need to find another lock washer. And it looks like the brace is attached to the wrong side of the generator, it just seemed to fit better that way. Perhaps my generator is mounted just a bit too far forward, if that is possible.

It’s possible to get the lower bracket on backwards; the holes are offset from the centerline
Use a straight edge to check if the pulleys are lined up, very important that they are.
DG

If your pump has a "wobble" or looseness in it, it will most likely leak. That will be obvious if it does.

That is a very clean looking assembly toy have there.

Denny, reversing the bracket did the trick, now the pulleys are properly aligned.

Thanks Fred, the engine is looking good!

I cleaned every part on a wire wheel (except the fan which I sandblasted, and the manifold which I left alone). Everything then got a coat of "rust-stop", which I imagine is some kind of mixture of acid, oil, and stickum.

I briefly considered painting the parts, but this would've been a pain in the butt. Painting is time consuming, messy, and tricky to get right, and paint scratches.

I thought about doing nothing, just bolting the parts on rusty. But that wouldn't "feel right", and the engine would be ugly.

I think the bare metal with rust protection looks good, and it should stay looking good, and it was quick and easy. Once it starts running the engine will get covered with oil and grime, I suppose. But I can just roll into a car wash and clean it up, no problem.

On some car, not truck applications, those holes were used to attach motor mounts, with a third mount on the back of the transmission. Pickups and bigger trucks used mounts near the front crankshaft pulley and the bellhousing, with the transmission unsupported at the rear. On your truck, the holes have no purpose, since the engine has mounts front and rear.
Jerry