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#757908 06/27/2011 1:23 PM
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G
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I have converted to discs wuth a double diaphram and dual master. While the truck brakes ok under normal use, I am unable to lock them up. I seem to be bottoming out solid the pedal after 3 inch depression. Is the connecting rod between the pedal and master too short or am I missing somthing else?

Last edited by gazim; 06/27/2011 1:24 PM.
gazim #757916 06/27/2011 1:53 PM
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J
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3" travel sounds slightly excessive Gary,I assume the brakes are full bled of air?
Also bear in mind the front pads will have to work harden, new pads can sometimes feel a bit spongy but the pedal still shouldn't bottom out..
I would try adjusting the pushrod as you've suggested.
Just make sure to pay attention to the free-play and you do not retain pressure after the pedal's released.


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
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G
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Will check. Is there more than one size pushrod?

gazim #758001 06/27/2011 8:19 PM
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'Bolter
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They're usually adjustable, who's booster set-up is it?


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,756
G
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Posts: 1,756
would have tocheck but I believe I bought at a swapmeet from Southern Hot rods. I will pull it tomorrow and be more informative. Let you know. It stops ok but I have just been lazy and putting off what has to be done.

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Just went thru this after changing calipers. Make sure your rear drums are adjusted up properly. Does your new M/C have a built-in proportioning valve ? If not you may need to add one. If your M/C is mounted below floorboards you should have a residual pressure valve on system. ( Check out Wilwood website for info. ) As Jock says, there is some adjustment on the piston rod between the booster and M/C - make sure you still have clearance on this or your brakes will seize up as pressure is not fully released each time you release the pedal.


1940 Chevy KC 1/2-Ton
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Britcon #758163 06/28/2011 5:50 AM
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If you converted from stock drums to power discs did you weld an extension onto the arm that conects to the push rod ?
I had to add 3/4" between the original push rod hole & the new one. Now I have about 3" of pedal travel & the truck stops great


1949 chev 3100 3 window. 350hp/327/m21 4 spd, 12 bolt rear, power brakes, 3" dropped axle from Sid's. Disc brakes next.
nvrdone #758280 06/28/2011 8:29 PM
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Now we are talking. The m/s is firewall mounted with a porporting valve. going to check out that 3/4 inch. bit. I got busy on a friends car today, Thanks.

Last edited by gazim; 06/28/2011 8:30 PM.
gazim #758343 06/28/2011 11:45 PM
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I assumed your M/C was the under floor unit,but the principal's the same regardless.
Let us know how you get on.


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 82
N
Wrench Fetcher
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N Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 82
I thought your m/c was under the floor also. I had to extend the arm on mine to correct the problem.
You may just be able to drill a hole lower on your arm. Just make sure the push rod doesn't bind going thru the firewall.


1949 chev 3100 3 window. 350hp/327/m21 4 spd, 12 bolt rear, power brakes, 3" dropped axle from Sid's. Disc brakes next.

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