The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Bleeding new Brake system

Members:
I have just completed putting new brake lines,wheel cylinders,brake pads,springs etc. All new except Master cylinder ( Looks very new )Still fluid in Master.
I replaced all my front bearings and races and grease cups. Put hub back on.. and the front wheels spins freely. I got new rear drums and put them on and I have a slight rub.
I have the star adjuster all the way in. I just read the Manual and it says to disconnect the parking brake. I'm on duty so I can't do that today...Can that be the problem with the rear drums Dragging slightly?
So, my main question is how should I go about filling my dry lines? I have a small hand vaccum pump for brakes...I was going to make sure the resevoir was full and create a vaccum with the pump and then start with the left front and work my way back.per pump manual...Since I've never done a complete dry system before..does this sound reasonable? or do you have any other ways...Also I'm confused about after the brakes are bleed you turn the star wheel back 7 notches..? What happens if you don't have the seven notches on the wheel?

Just trying to do this right the first time.
Any help would be great.
Thanks

Brakes need to be fully adjusted per the manual before you bleed the brakes.

Use your brake vac to get all the old fluid out of the mc reservoir and start with new fluid.

Then use the vac tool to bleed as you described. Refill the reservoir after each wheel.

So, Cletis...I'm going to adjust the star wheel to create a slight drag on the wheels...( thru the slot in the back of the backing plate). For both front and rear . Once they are adjusted to a slight drag...turn the adjuster star backwards 7 clicks. then Bleed brakes....Correct ?
Again If I don't have 7 clicks is that ok?
Thanks

I don't see why you wouldn't have 7 clicks. That is less than one revolution.

Cletis, my only concern is that my back brakes are already dragging ( slightly ) even before bleeding. I don't know if the parking brake still being attached is causing it or not. Will bleeding the brakes cause them to constrict and cause this to go away...then I can adjust and turn it the 7 notches?
Thanks Again

Dont worry about slight drags. New shoes & new drums havnt been seated yet. They will have some drag untill they are broke in. Adjust the starwheel up till you get a heavy drag. Then back it off about 5 notches.
Unless you know the master cyl has been replaced or rebuilt recently I would put a kit in it. When you start moveing the parts to a different possition they can fail soon after the job is done. A good master cyl. helps with the bleeding also. When you get through the pedal should barely go down. You just apply pressure to it.

If I remember correctly we were always told to crank up the brake until you felt a slight drag. So much of what we knew was stuff old mechanics told us.

I am about the charge a new brake system. I am following the thread so far. Can someone refresh me on bleeding the master cylinder. I think I understood to bleed the master first. To bleed the master connect a scrap break line and route line back into the reservoir and then generally depress pedal until all air is expelled? Then connect brake line from master to first junction? Can someone confirm?
I presume if I keep fluid in both (brake and clutch) chambers I can do them one at a time?

You have the procedure down. Yes, do the brake and clutch one at a time.