The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop The brakes are winning...

I figured after I broke out the BFH that I had better stop and ask a couple of questions.

1) Is it possible that the bolts holding the wheel cylinder on are metric? (Maybe swapped out at some time?)
---I cannot find any of my box wrenches that will fit the heads tightly---

2) Can I just take of that whole brake mounting plate to make it easier to get to the back and the cylinder bolts?
---This is where I started with the BFH and the 1 1/8" box wrench to get the top bolt loose, but can't get the bottom two to even start moving---

Anyway, have to take back one of the new cylinders as it was obviously a return and is all dirty inside...gah.

Dave

(Had to edit this as once upon a time it said 'master' instead of 'wheel'.) :rolleyes:

I am not familiar with your setup but when I am stuck trying to remove a nut, I drill a hole through the side of the nut and then take a chisel to it.

The bolts shouldn't be metric. Dou you have access to a strong impact gun? You might try that before you whack on your box wrench more (my Dad broke a toothe doing thet once fixing a mini-bike).

Yes, it's possible that they were replaced with metric some time in the past. I don't think it is very likely, though. Especially not in the states.

Mine were rusty as hell, and were a real joy to remove.

Take a wire brush and knock the crap off of them and see what fits.

those bolts always corrode from spilling fluid ... possible someone has replaced them, but also possible they're rounded off a bit, maybe cut the heads off and replace them yourself

Bill

I'm going with the cut them off option. I think I can just get my Dremel back in there behind that plate to reach the head on the cylinder bolts.

I'd rather not have to take that whole plate off so going to try this first.

(Been rainy now, so had to wait....)

Pulling the backing plate would be a last-resort situation, and that big anchor bolt will be a major pain to remove, as you've already discovered. Get a set of 6-point sockets, not box-end wrenches, and I'll bet the fit will be a lot better. Soak the bolts with penetrating oil like Kroil, PB blaster, etc, and then whack the head of the bolt with a punch and a big hammer to break the rusty threads loose. If you twist the bolt off in the wheel cylinder, no problem because you're replacing it anyway. You can also heat the head of the bolt with a propane torch and apply penetrating oil while it's hot.
Jerry

Uh, well I started to answer then realized you said "master cylinder". But the description reads like wheel cylinder work.

If it is wheel cylinder, I strongly suggest a good impact wrench with 6 point impact sockets, seated on the bolt head, with a hammer. before using the gun.

That one bolt is way back in there on that model. You may wind up haveing to take off the backing plate. The lower bolts holding it to the spindle could be frozen in pretty tight. That master cyl. thing had me going at first.

I've been known to try a metric tool on something that seemed off. You never know. The thing about a bolt head is that it could be distorted from rust or a previous mechanic's abuse. And if you're like me with eyes that are getting worse by the minute it doesn't get any easier to see the darn thing. Try cleaning up the bolt, looking at it with good light and some good cheater glasses. Some good suggestions above. I have a special wrench I use in special situations. It's called an oxy/acetaline cutting torch. You could call it a "liquid wrench". Works pretty good but only once per application...

As an aside, there are many times when I'd like to just beat my whole truck with a BFH. Since I love my truck, would that be domestic violence?

Skip :hammering:

Oh....ooops.
Yep, my mistake....wheel cylinder...that is what my head was saying...but fingers didn't..I'll go edit that to avoid confusion.

Anyway, update....as Wrenchbender mentioned...these bolts are way back in behind the plate. There is no clearance for a socket of any kind. (Is that the spindle that is in the way?)

So last night was more mideveil(?) violence. (Couldn't even fit the dremel with cutter head back in there.) I put a drill bit in the dremel and cut grooves/holes into the sides of the bolt head. Then got out my small cold forged chisel and beat the bolt at an angle toward the rotation to get the bolt out. This eventually made the bolt start to turn with each hit...then I could grip it with the long nose visegrips and turn it.

Got all four out last night.

They all had that locking washer (with lots of little teeth on them)...is that standard and should I use the same on a replacement?

Dave,
You're winning a little each day! I'd replace with the same kind of washers. Some of the guys use a small amount of anti-sieze compound on various bolts when reassembling so that it's easier to take apart in the future. Skip

Hey Skip....LOVE the dumptruck. Great job on it...problem is that it inspires me to spend more money on mine...lol