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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 35
R
New Guy
New Guy
R Offline
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 35
The place where the carb mounts has corroded and deteriorated. I am wondering if I need to remove the manifold and get this repaired or if it would be possible to get a new thick gasket and get it to seal with silicone or some other product. What d'yall think? My fear is that the deteriorated area is actually in one of the carburetor circuits. It has the Rochester G2. Also, there is a picture of the bottom of the carb. I do not want to swap the intake because this engine is all original and has been our family since new.

see the intake and bottom of carb here.

http://s1178.photobucket.com/albums/x376/remohbill/

Last edited by remohbill; 06/10/2011 6:41 PM.
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 58
C
New Guy
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pic's... pic's!!!!

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Can you file it down?... or fill it with JBWeld and then smooth it down?...then a new gasket.


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M
'Bolter
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Intake manifolds are pretty easy to find, why not just replace it?


1946 1-ton Panel
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Never, ever use a sealer where intake manifold vacuum is applied to the gasket. If you can remove the mounting studs and draw-file the mounting flange smooth, no problem. Stuff a rag down the manifold to keep filings out of the engine. It might be possible to use J-B weld or some similar type of filler to smooth the gasket surface, but I'd prefer a smooth file-finished surface, or a replacement manifold. A vacuum leak there can be terribly frustrating with its effect on performance.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
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You asked for pics now you got'em. See above in my original post.

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8
'Bolter
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I would pull it and take it to a machine shop. I figure 10 bucks in gaskets, and 20 to the machine shop, and you have a restored surface


Curt Warren
Salt Lake City
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C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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A belt sander will do wonders for that thing.

Joined: Feb 2004
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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That was a chronic problem with those carburetors. The passageway in question carries exhaust gas- - - -it's part of the heat riser system. A leak there will put exhaust gas back into the intake, resulting in a condition like an EGR valve on a later-model engine stuck wide open- - - -lousy performance and an engine that won't idle. CAREFULLY drill and tap the rotted-away mounting studs, and draw-file or machine the gasket surface flat again. I'd suggest taking the manifold to a machine shop where it can be set up in a Bridgeport mill for both stud replacement and fly-cutting a new gasket surface. Draw-file the throttle base dead flat before reinstalling the carb, too.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Oct 2006
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D
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 99
hi, Jerry,

What is the problem with a sealer where intake vacuum is applied? I used permatex #2 on my Holley 1904 on my GMC 270 and have been having problems- likely vacuum leaks.

Dave

PS I found the answer from some other posts of Jerry's- the intake vacuum can draw the sealer into the engine, not a good thing.

Last edited by Dave Douglas 56; 09/21/2012 10:27 PM. Reason: found Jerry's answer

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